The fuel pump was replaced and I dropped the fuel tank which is right next to the brake line. Decided to replace it too. I bought a stainless steel brake line so I wouldn't have to replace it again, but it's harder to flare than a standard steel line, or there's a nickel-copper line I'll try next. I had a little problem with the SS line trying to slide into the block. I filed the mating sides of the blocks a bit to get them a bit tighter, but I've found that if you take fine sandpaper and twist it around the end of the tube so you can see the little annular grooves around the SS conduit scratching will hold up much better. The SS beacon line seems so smooth and stiff it's hard to pin down. I made 4 flares because the line has a "non-standard" Ford hitch under the driver's door. That said, it's not a double inverted spigot that I replaced it with. It looks like double lightning on one line and bubble lightning on the other line squeezed together in their pod. No leaks yet and I don't expect to. I watch a video on the JEGS website of working with a stainless steel brake hose and recommend cutting the end off with a square hacksaw as the pipe cutter compresses the end so much on the SS hose. Try not to heat the line while cutting or you may temper and harden the end. I filed the outside edge so that the first punch presses on the middle of the pipe and the pipe can be blown out more easily since the outside edge is not pressed. The thing that looks like a threaded rod in this set is actually much larger at the bottom where the starting punch goes, keeping it in line. The only bad part is you can't see the fare driving until you remove the top, but that never seemed to be an issue to me. Note: In addition to the two bolts holding the block together, I also clamp it in a vise when not working with the cable that was already on the machine. I did the last flash under a truck and it worked fine. I used a very large set of channel locks to hold the square block in place when creating the dual flare.
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