Review on 🛠️ Power Tool Switch for Ryobi Craftsman Table Saw - Replacement Safety Locking On/Off Switch for Craftman Ryobi 10" Table Saw, 125V/250V, 4 Poles Power Switch, Replaces Part Number 089110109712 by Drew Cage

This switch worked great, was easy to install and cost less than $10! What I do not like? I have an original 1992 Ryobi BT3000 table saw, 13 amp model. Overall the saw performed admirably, so when the on/off switch was out of order I was disappointed to find that neither Ryobi nor aftermarket suppliers have a direct replacement switch. When I disassembled the original switch I saw why there is no direct replacement, the original switch was junk! Anyway, I bought this switch and took on the project of replacing the original switch with this one. It turned out to be a simple replacement. Removing the old switch: After unplugging the saw, access the old switch inside the saw. Disconnect the wire connections from the switch as they are equipped with quick disconnects. Remove the 4 switch housing screws and disassemble the switch just enough to remove the switch housing. The old switch is not held in place by screws, it slides out the front of the saw body leaving a square hole. Installing the new switch: The new switch will be mounted on the surface of the front of the saw (see picture #1). . The switch is too small to cover the entire cutout to the left of the original switch, but it's unnoticeable (if you're worried about the gap, the tape is roughly the same color). The new switch requires four #8 x 3/4" pan-head machine screws along with large #8 washers, #8 split washers, and #8 nuts for proper installation. See picture #2 on the back of the switch. as installed by the saw body. The cutout is slightly too big to drill new holes in all four mounting points. Instead, I used oversized washers, #8 washers, #8 washers, and #8 nuts to secure the underside of the derailleur using the cut out shoulders. I drilled holes in the saw body for the top bolts and then attached the switch using bolts through the drilled holes, washers, washers and nuts. Not the prettiest setup overall, but she got the installation done with minimal modifications to the saw body. d 4-->5 (right side) when the switch is on. I used left joins and ignored right ones. The whole job took about an hour after I disassembled the saw and removed all the sawdust with a vacuum cleaner. Would I buy this switch again? I'd bet, given how long the last switch took, that if it fails this switch will also be obsolete.