This is our third. The first is a turtle that is already five years old, I had to open it several times to lubricate the movement mechanism, but it still works. The second was a green frog that lasted 18 months before the lights went permanently dark (everything else worked fine). The third was also a turtle, and it was only four months before the light finally faded. The last one also flashed and just touching the dimmer wheel caused the light to flicker, so I figured they had bad resistance swing (dials). After some fiddling, it turns out I was right and fixed the frog and the new turtle! Before I tell you how to do this, let me say that this will void any warranty that may or may not exist (the company is pretty bad at warranties). ). Also, this will permanently disable the dimmer dial, it will be at full brightness from now on. tools required; A good jeweler's screwdriver, preferably one with a long, smooth shaft (see step 3); Soldering iron and a small amount of solder; a tool for stripping very thin wires is not required, but helps; Wire cutters will help but are not necessary. Step 1: Remove the battery and battery cover. Step 2: Unscrew the 4 screws surrounding the battery cover and remove this part (this is the black plastic cover surrounding the battery compartment, hot glued to the plush, remove slowly and carefully) Step 3: Unscrew the 7 screws holding the translucent case (This is by far the most difficult step, you'll need to find the screws with your finger and a screwdriver, then position the screwdriver as vertically as possible without tearing the case). Plush, a non-smooth shank screwdriver MAY wrap around the packaging, I figured it's best to leave the screws in place unless they're fully loosened.) Step 4: Remove the case ( be careful, some screws cannot be fully unscrewed, a bit of back and forth is required here) Step 5: Remove the four screws from the newly exposed blue or green inner plastic (these will be the shorter screws, like all the others screws from now on). Do looks like there are a few pieces, it's actually just one, one of mine, I had to gently pry a few dots around the plush edge, don't use force) Step 6: Remove the blue or green inner plastic (this one may be You a little tricky, it's fragile and one of mine was quite tight there, be careful and work with it, it can be hot glued, there are a lot of wires going to it so just flip it over and DO NOT break or disconnect it wires) Step 7: Remove 3 screws from the small pulley next to the head. and remove the pulley assembly (just leave the rubber band on) Step 8: Remove the larger pulley (you don't need to remove the screws for this, remove the rubber band with) Step 9: Remove the 2 large flat head screws holding the Hold speaker, then remove speaker (one of mine was hot glued in place and I had to cut open a line of glue, then carefully use a screwdriver in one of the holes to pry it out, again don't break or pull off the wires, just install as far as it goes possible) Step 10: Unscrew the 2 screws with a large flat head holding the dimmer control and pull out the dimmer. Note that there are multiple ways to complete steps 11-13. I'll go back over what I did and then give options, whichever ones) Step 12: Remove the extra length from the wire you just removed (the plastic was soft enough, I just used my nails). ) Step 13: Solder the loose wire to the wire that the window sill connected to the dimmer. Alternatively, you can take a small piece of wire and "bridge" two wires, or remove both and solder them together. Step 14: Insert batteries and check your work. I wrote down the screw types (in my case there were three different types: longer, shorter and larger). The larger pulley has a small pulley facing up (visible), don't forget to reconnect the rubber bands and align the clear seesaw. It's best to double-check your work before Step 3. Step 3 will again be the hardest, remember there are slight choking hazards so BUCK THIS SHELL! Also remember that the screws are metal and the screw holes are plastic, do not use force.
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