Review on Nilight - ZH006 LED Light Bar 20 Inch 126W Spot Flood Combo Off-Road Lights: Reliable Performance with Wiring Harness Kit, 2 Year Warranty by Patrick Bacho

I installed this lightbar and wiring harness on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler. It fits perfectly over the bar mounts on the EAG front bumper. The light is very bright, the pendant is well made. Took me about three hours to install, but a smarter person would only need an hour. See the story below for a detailed description of my fool. The story is below: First, move the pole out of the way.... Pretty easy - I just inserted the mounting brackets as they were meant to be attached. I then spaced the brackets 12 inches apart (6 inches from the center of the handlebar) and the bolts slid right into the mounting points on my stem. The easiest part of the whole setup. The only issue, no matter how small, is that they provided three extra washers and one extra screw, which made me wonder if I was missing something. I ran it through a few bumps and such to see if I could get it to spin, but it stayed in place. pretty good. I didn't buckle up until I found time to. Good, that! This took much longer than I expected. I'll start with the relay. I pinned the tab to the insulator holder post in the top PS corner of the engine bay and attached it to the existing wiring harness for added stability. From then on, I did three "runs"; Battery, switch and light bar. I will list them in ascending order of difficulty. Battery - yes, just put red on red and black on black. Switch - This leg of the harness has a built in connector and a toggle switch on the end. Starting with the relay I routed it behind the existing wiring harness using two zip ties to bring the connector closer to the DS corner on the other side of the engine bay. I removed the inner A-pillar cover and DS dash end cap and fed the wire through the hole I found that allowed me to feed the wire through the gap under the hood. This hole was filled with insulation foam, but I stuck a wire hanger through and routed the wire harness (attached with spade lugs) back into the cabin from the side of the engine bay. I drilled a ¾" hole in the A-pillar trim - pushed the shift button, replaced all the trims, then went back to the engine side to tie the harness to the existing harness and reconnect the connector. Oddly, there were enough cables for it --- I wonder if Nilight had this setup in mind. Light-Bar - I just routed it along the top edge of the PS side and under the fuse box. mounting bracket. I then unclipped the grille to gain access so I could get to the existing fog light wiring harness that goes to the bumper. I've attached zip ties to every foot or so here just to keep things in order. The wiring harness has two branches for the light connector and since I only needed one I sealed the first one with tape and attached it to the tether for safekeeping. Now the fun part! "When installing the light, I drilled a hole in the side rail just below the DS mounting bracket. Since this bar is welded to the bumper, it is open at the bottom. "I can just pull cables through. I thought. It's like trying to push pasta through a straw! I gave up the "push through the tube" approach, then gave up the "pull through the hanger wire" approach and developed the "hook the magazine" approach. "Vacuum-to-the-bottom-and-suck-a-cut-of-paracord-through-the-hole." It worked so well it ripped four feet of paracord out of my hand on the first try , before I could turn off the vacuum in the store. I cut off the spade connectors and was able to pull the connecting wires up and out of the hole under the bracket. I connected them to the flashlight with some butt soldered connectors, then slipped them back through the hole in the post and sealed them with silicone gasket. I checked the wiring harness and even hooked everything up to the light so I knew it was good at that moment, but when I flicked the switch---no joy. I checked all the connections, then I found that there was a 15 amp fuse in the line...yes, blown. I replaced it and blew it again just to be safe. I looked all the way around for places to short it out and was about to pull out the A-pillar panels when I remembered the extra lighting connector I'd taped in place. Of course, I didn't cut off the flat connectors there, but attached them to the cable harness with adhesive tape, which creates a very reliable and effective short circuit. It took another half hour to fix it, but then everything worked perfectly. I'm not sure how many lumens the Nilight - ZH006 produces. Declared 126 watts using 42 3 watt LEDs. I took it to a local open field and completely disrupted the circadian rhythms of about fifty white-tails. It's really like driving with a little bumper sun - if I ever accidentally shone that in another driver's eyes I think a charge of assault would be in order and I'd plead guilty without a contest. Nilight 20 Inch 126W Spot Flood Combo Offroad LED Light Bar & Wiring H - Nilight Led Light