Review on Fowler 72 646 300 Cylinder Dial Gauge by Ricardo Knight

As there is very little information on the net about this tool I decided to provide a few details Motor Conclusion: Would I buy it again? --- Yes, would I recommend it to a friend? ---Yes.Pros: ---Outstanding value ---Extensive measurement capabilities ---Great for evaluating out-of-round and tapered cylinders ---Good solid body and overall solid feel.Cons: ---Measurement step with no tool conversion is 0, 2 inches ---Measurement against external reference only ---Does not fit or manufacture into the highest quality instrument. Initial quality: good/satisfactory. old. The case is strong, all the details are there, everything fits together as it should, the mechanism works clearly. I feel like this is being done by a company full of people who don't know/care what they are doing. For example, the inscription "INCH HOLE DIAMETERS 2"-6"" on the grip is a bit strange, apart from the grammar (an "inch bore gauge" would have sufficed, since the measuring range is limited by the the choice of anvil is determined). ) was not fully "polished" or "glued". It's okay, but it shows a lack of attention to detail. Also, the end of the anvil has a slight bulge in the middle where the lathe manufacturer's cutter was not set perfectly centered. It needed to be ground/lapped or the machine was adjusted properly. Anyway, the "protrusions" don't affect the performance of the tool at all, since the end of the anvil isn't a support surface, it just fits into a deep hole. Also the surface roughness of the anvil is good for the gauge. It appears to have a "chiseled" finish and while good as such it feels "enough" to me and is in line with the price of the set. First, this tool gives relative measurements, which means the user is calibrating the dial for a specific job, so you'll need a decently sized micrometer in addition to that, or maybe you could get by with vernier calipers. You can also "zero" with a micrometer or caliper to convey the diameter of the piston for which the cylinder is being measured. They max out about 0.2 inches of travel to work inside. What You Get: Includes body, head/stem/knob assembly, dial indicator, dial indicator guard, 11 anvils in .200 increments (more on that later), 2" anvil extension, .02" anvil spacers, 0 .05 inch and .100 inch (thickness accuracy not checked), instructions/information sheet and silica gel bag =) Anvils: 11 pcs.; one is built into the measuring head. Don't let the case fool you. There are 12 slots and there are only 11 anvils, although the empty slot on mine turned out to be labeled "no 11 4.0”, the label was moved slightly to the left, slot 12 is empty, that's not a bug. I removed and reapplied the label to align it a bit better. Here are the anvil sizes: 2.0" 2.2" 2.4" 2.6" 2.8" 3.0" 3.2" 3.4" 3.6" 3.8", 4.0". Add a 2.0" extension for the 4-6" range. Each anvil has a very hard, shiny (tungsten carbide?) ball point attached to the end .Measuring head: It had a fluted threaded collar which held an anvil and at the other end a small point which was somehow connected by a lever mechanism to a piston in the shaft, the movement of which was read by a dial indicator.The moving measuring point of the measuring head is inserted in held in the center of the cylinder bore by a pair of chrome "donuts" (which do not rotate) on a spring-loaded slide surrounding the gauge head. Again, you have a maximum of about 0.2" to work inside. Dial indicator: 0-0 .25" range, large dial, 0.0005" divisions. Markus Fowler. Chances are you could install a different sensor if you want, it looks like a nice one a standard. The dial gauge guard is a nice accessory, but as far as I can tell it shouldn't remain on the instrument in the storage case, and it's a bit of a hassle to put on and take off as it's held in place by two Phillips screws. It can almost, ALMOST, be installed without loosening the screws, but not quite. Unless I tried it right. This is not specified in the instructions. Instructions: Well, if you're rebuilding an engine, you can probably figure out the tool without a guide, OR at least that's what the manufacturer has to believe because there aren't many parts to guard or there's no mention of how, where, or when to use spacers , no mention of how the internals work, if they can be disassembled or adjusted, no maintenance instructions. Usage steps are vague and use ambiguous terminology/mentions of parts and features that are not defined.