I think most of you use the ubiquitous disc and belt sander combo. I also assume most of you don't have a real dust collection system (like a shop vacuum) connected to the dust ports. Aside from that, here's what I've learned: 1. If you frequently grind ferrous metal, use neodymium bar magnets to catch chips as they form (see image).2. NEVER use finer than 100 grit unless you want to cover the entire garage in a damaging layer of dust. I bought a pack of 220 grit sanding discs a few months ago and immediately did such a mess I threw them away and bought these 100 grit sanding discs instead. To be honest I wish I had gone with 80 grit. Particles of 100 grit still too dusty. This is particularly problematic when grinding aluminum as fine aluminum dust is flammable/explosive. For comparison, the steel filings sticking to the magnet in my picture were made with 60 grit tape. I wouldn't go coarser than 60 or finer than 100.3. You probably already know this from sandpaper in general, but the finer it is, the faster it wears out. The 220 grit disc I mentioned was smooth almost immediately (I smoothed the ends of the steel tubes). In fact, I used the same 100 grit disc for the same task for several weeks. Starting at 60 grit, the discs will last practically forever (provided you don't overload them).4. The disadvantage of 60/80/100 grit discs is that they are more prone to breaking when you try to take them out of the grinder. The adhesive backing (which is very similar to 3M VHB tape) tends to tear leaving a sticky mess. The best way to remove this stuff is with "Goo Gone". It's difficult to remove (takes up to 20 minutes), but it's certainly preferable to the alternative where the discs come off if you use a grinder. There is no perfect glue; it either doesn't stick well enough or leaves a sticky mess when you remove it. As long as you're using durable, gritty discs, removing the adhesive shouldn't be too much of a hassle.
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