Review on Enhanced Motorcraft YH1933 Heater Blend Actuator for Optimal Performance by Tim Shah

Let me start by saying that despite what Revane says, this works on a 2009 Lincoln Navigator. I watched a YouTube video about replacing the faucet door operator behind the radio and found that it didn't fix the problem. Instead, I found a total of three drives in the dashboard area. I diagnosed the wrong drive but couldn't find much information on where the others are or how to fix them. Above the gas pedal on the driver's side is the actuator, which you can see lying on your back. This will probably be the easiest to replace. My failed actuator was on the passenger side leg well behind the fairing. Below is my less elegant but functional replacement method that will take about 3 hours. Remove both panels and glove box door. You need to partially separate the plastic duct from the airbox on top. The drive is between them. There are two screws on the driver's side that you can reach and one on the passenger's side in front of the drive. Using a razor blade, carefully cut the carpet along the center of the transmission boss. It will be hidden behind the panels and you'll never see it when it's done. This allows you to disconnect the air duct passing under the front seats. Support it with a 2x4 pry bar. You can access a drive screw on the passenger side. screws 8mm. I've found that using my little Craftsman carb wrenches is the only thing small enough to (sort of) work in this space. Next, a more serious problem. hidden screw. This is a kind of access on the driver's side. There is a plastic bracket on the lower channel that hides the screw and is not connected to - wait - absolutely nothing. I used my dremel to sand it down to get to the screw. I rubbed the air duct to get better access to the propeller. The hole I made was later covered with HVAC foil tape. I also used a dremel to cut off the plastic tab on the screw, which I later broke off because access was too narrow for a wrench. The actuator is actually between the airbox and the air duct and to remove them you have to separate them. 3/4 to 1 inch. To do this I removed the lower airbox nut on the bulkhead by the passenger's feet. I then used a small jack to gently curl the airbox up about an inch. It was a meticulous operation. You can now separate the bottom air duct and air box to slide the actuator down. I ended up breaking the tab on the old drive to gain access to remove the driver's side screw. In my situation I had to realign the drive. Line up the door slots with the quarter I sanded down before I could put the drive in. The driver's side bolt was mostly hand tightened as I couldn't find the right wrench or socket. Everything was fine on the passenger side. PETE However, the woman is incredibly happy that Kli assumes so.