Review on 🔀 CABLEDECONN 8K DisplayPort Switch Bi-Directional Converter for Multiple Sources and Displays, supporting 8K@30Hz and 4K@120Hz. by Raymond Iglesias

I bought two of these and a USB switching hub to create a cheap multi-monitor KVM setup for about $100 (compared to two-channel KVMs that starting at $250 and can easily go up to $500 for decent quality, and they don't necessarily support DP1.3+). This allows me to easily switch any monitor and peripheral between my work and home computers during WFH. In terms of quality, the device has a metal body and feels solid. I'm planning on attaching mine to the back of the monitor but haven't quite figured out how to do that yet (probably command strips, but a monitor has a more curved surface which would make this difficult). Switching requires physically pressing a button and there doesn't seem to be an alternative. I'm tempted to open mine to see how easy it would be to hook up another micro switch so it can be moved anywhere. Power is supplied via a common USB DC power port adapter (none of the data ports are connected so you can't switch them over USB). You need to provide your own DP cables. On a working machine, I use the onboard DP ports on the motherboard. I am my personal car. I have an EVGA 2080Ti. Monitors: - Asus XB271HU connected to DP switch "Alpha" (2560x1440, 144 Hz GSync) - Dell 2412m connected to DP switch "Bravo". " (1920 x 1200, 60Hz) - Dell 2412m connected directly to my personal computer. Cables are important. Initially I used 6ft cables everywhere (DP1.3 I think?) and while playing there were intermittent and regular flickering/noise on 1440p monitor IIRC They recommend staying under 10ft so I replaced the monitor with patch cords with 3ft versions and that almost completely fixed the issues product/B079736SZL – Between home PC and switch: 6ft DP 1.4, specifically: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2E4S8Y - Between work PC and switch: 10ft DP 1.3 (?), specifically : https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XS4Q8MC (I already had them and they are no longer available; I had no problems but if I saw any I would buy more 6ft CableMatters link above) So for the issues I mentioned earlier when I switched to a 3 foot cable and for connecting to monitors I saw that almost all problems disappeared. I have intermittent - that is, maybe once a day, maybe less - signal flickering and my GSync monitor goes black for a second, then comes back and everything is fine. It didn't bother me enough to study it further. The older U2412m had no problems. When switching between monitors, the monitor actually got disconnected from the device, which works great for me. I may have 1 to 3 monitors for my personal machine and 1 or 2 monitors for my work machine. The only other weird clue I have is that one of the two I bought defaults to input 1 and the other defaults to input 2. I tried different combinations of connected devices and turned the switch on and off and nothing changed. I posted the question and I hope the manufacturer will reply. Pros: - No issues after following manufacturer's recommendations, although I'm not trying to run 8K and I'm sure I'll have issues with it based on my experience. But it suits my needs and I was confident enough after reading the reviews before buying it. - Switches fairly quickly (I'd say within a second, maybe two, although I didn't time it) and Windows is fast. for detecting a new monitor and setting up the desktop of a new computer (it's also best to put windows back where it was, although it's not ideal, but I can't blame this device for this problem) - The Indicator light is a blue LED that is easily visible. Cables are secure and feel secure, no bending or wiggling. Connected DC/AC power seems to be much safer than micro-USB - I power them from my monitor's USB ports, so they turn off when I turn the monitor off. Cons: - You have to press a physical switch to set the input - The bright blue light can be distracting in a dark room, but it's easy to cover with tape - I had an issue with weird signal timing on my GSync monitor, which caused this to effectively lose the signal, and then returns it in a split second. This happens at most once a day. - It is not possible to set a default input and one defaults to 1 and the other defaults. 2 caveats: your monitors/setup. It doesn't look like using a remote mounted switch is a standard way to go, so have it handy on your desk or behind your monitor.