Review on LuK LMC607 Clutch Master Cylinder by Jared Aguilar

Installs fairly easily and works like the original within 2 days. reinstall. Tips: Before starting, drain all the fluid from the old clutch master cylinder (CMC). DO NOT bring any liquid into contact with the paint! Purchase "brake cleaner" to quickly clean up drips/spills. Use a curved pick to pry the cotter pin where the clutch pedal attaches to your CMCU. between the old CMC and the firewall must be reused on the new CMC. You can remove the forked part of the new CMC before allowing it through the firewall. Reattach all the lines (and reattach the small fork if it was removed) before bolting on the new CMC. A bit of tape on one side of the 12mm nut (or even a small piece of paper towel wedged between the side of the nut and the hub) will ensure the nut is snug in the bushing so you can start working on the Bolt starts behind the pedal. Install new CMC, then tighten the hard line a second time with a 10mm flare wrench. It has to be very tight, otherwise it will flow. You can probably do this with a standard 10mm bolt, but be careful not to damage the nut. The small fork that attaches the CMC to the pedal is adjustable. I had to pull it almost to the end. Tighten the lock nut when you have the desired length. Bleed the system using gravity, then have someone sit in the car and pump/pump/pump/hold/release about 5 times to bleed the air. Google it. It took less than 2 hours from start to test drive and I worked at my usual pace. I will update this review if I encounter any issues with this CMC.