Review on CUTEQUEEN TRADING LED Load Resistors - Fix Hyper Flash & Warning, 4PCS 50W 6Ohm + Quick Wire Clips - Ideal for LED Turn Signals, License Plate & DRL Lights by Casey Vance

There were no instructions in this set but just enough to figure out what needs to happen. LED hyper-flashing occurs when a standard flashing incandescent bulb is replaced with an LED. The resistance of an LED is much lower than that of an incandescent lamp due to the higher efficiency. You just need to add resistance to slow down the lightning to normal levels. Since there were no directions, I decided to post some! I replaced the stock 3157 rear brake/turn signals with 1200 lumen LEDs. As expected, I had a problem with the hyperfirmware. The 3157/3057 lamp has three wires. I used an inexpensive 12 volt test light to determine which wire was grounded, 12 volts constant, and 12 volts switched. If you have the key, the turn signal is on, your indicator light will flash when you find the 12 volt switch wire. It remains constant for the permanent wire. You don't get a test bulb for the ground wire. Luckily I found the connector further in the trunk behind the carpet. Then it turned off, turned on the headlights with the turn signals on, checked the terminals and quickly figured out what was going on. I made notes and followed the wires to where I could install these resistors on the metal surface. If you don't have a connector, just use a test lamp to gently poke the wire where you're going to cut it. Just remember to wrap tape around the pierced wire if you later decide not to cut it. And now the most interesting! These babes are getting HOT, really HOT! They must be mounted on metal to aid in heat dissipation. If you run one of these on 12 volts DC, it will be hot as long as the light is on. For this reason I recommend only using the one on the switched wire side so it only gets hot when the brakes/turn signals are on. If you have a hyperflashing problem, all you need is a resistor in the 12 volt circuit to fix it. You can connect the light without any resistors and it will stay on all the time without any problem. I have never trusted the little jumper splice sockets that come with this kit! If you decide to use them, they must be installed in the car in a completely dry place. I recommend at least using dielectric grease in these connectors. I always use professional automotive grade heat shrink butt connectors, which turn into tacky hot glue to seal everything when done. So the resistor jumps across the switched 12V line and the ground line wherever it can be attached to metal. I cut and removed the 12v switch wire, the ground wire and removed both ends of the resistor. I twisted one end of the 12 volt shifter wire to the resistor and placed it in the butt connector, crimped twice. I twisted the ground wire and the other end of the resistor and put it in the second butt connector, crimped twice. I took both butt connectors and crimped them twice onto the correct color wire on the other end of the cuts. I lit the shrink tubing on the butt connectors, attached the resistors to the piece of metal in the trunk and voila, no more hyperflares! Again, there weren't any instructions in this set, so I hope this helps.