If you rate less than 3 stars here, you do so because of a user error. However, the guide is pretty lame, requiring some critical thinking skills to properly understand it. I only got it wrong once, on my first try, so let me leave you with a few guidelines:ΒΉ) When setting up the rollers and cutter wheel. , all you have to do is set the bottle down and adjust until all roller wheels and the blade make equal contact. Remove the bottle, tighten everything except the scorer. Lift the scoring roller 2mm then tighten.Β²) The L-bracket you attach to the back, too fragile for many, guarantees user error. Think of the pressure when the bottle is pushed against it, and then realize that the first tongue should be pushed as far forward as possible to minimize deflection.Β³) Speaking of pressure. When you're ready, apply even pressure to the bottle with both hands, then slowly rotate the bottle while you hear the scoring wheel do its job. Don't try to use the L bracket as a stop or it will bend and you won't have a clean score line. After all, that's exactly what you want to achieve - a score line. You don't want to spin fast. The average bottle should only rotate once every 20-30 seconds. Simply apply appropriate pressure with both hands while rotating the bottle inward (if the bottle were free, it would roll towards you instead of away from you, which is the correct direction for the rotation). Second, when the scribe line matches, you will hear the scribe wheel scratch the glass in a new way. Ready. Now I didn't follow her instructions at all during most of the actual water finish. What I did was place both rubber pads side by side instead of pinching the score line. I placed them between the hand holding the bottom of the bottle and a marker line less than an inch away. I used bands to prevent hot water from the bottle from spilling onto my hand. Now the water itself. I filled the kettle and brought it almost to the boil (lots of steam), then placed a large plastic bowl under the tap, which had cold water running constantly. I slowly poured hot water over the marked line and counted to 20. The rubber bands kept the water from running down the bottle into the hand I was holding. Then I stopped pouring hot water and ran the cut section of cord under cold water for 10 seconds. Then pour hot water over again for 20 seconds. I only had to iterate once to get it working every time. The bottle breaks and falls safely into a plastic bowl. I then use store bought sandpaper and use the wet method where the sandpaper is constantly covered with water to pick up the glass dust. Make sure there is enough pressure here too. 80 until the underside is flat and matte, but the inside and outside edges are still uneven. Then 150, then 220, then 400. After 400 you can stop and repeat for the inside and outside edges. That's enough to be sure, but I'll go ahead and do 1000 and then eventually 2000. When that's done, repeat the order for the inside and outside edges. Here is a photo of my second glass I tried. It's only soap in it because when I took the lid off I realized it was green mold and I needed to wash it. This was a little dangerous as the edges were brand new. I'm including a photo to show exactly what this scored line should look like. This is a great starter kit - get it! If you're diligent and don't stop too much, you'll have a professional makeover in about 20 minutes per jar.
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