Review on GM Genuine Parts Red Radio Antenna Module 25623688 by Kevin Mckechnie

Hello everyone, here is my review. I hope this is helpful. This part was made in Germany and looks exactly like a German made OEM GM part. Before replacing this part, make sure that the relay that supplies power to this device is working. Mine (relay) was under the back seat. Btw I replaced this part because my rear window defroster stopped working and replacing this part AND the wiring harness solved the problem. Thanks YouTuber for the great video. Remember that your rear window defroster heating element is also your radio's antenna, so the module has a dual function. Inside are two wires and a coaxial cable from the radio. My module is on the left rear wall near the rear window. You have to remove the trim to get there (it starts at the B-pillar (the part of the car between the front and rear windows on the driver's side) and goes back to the left side of the rear window). You don't have to remove the back seat for this to work, at least I didn't have to on our Park Avenue. For some reason, the high-current connection overheats, damaging the module and the connector on the cable due to the heat. I'm not sure if this was a marginal GM design or what the root cause is. In my opinion, this type of overheating failure should never happen in a car, so maybe it was a doomed design from the start. Or maybe the design was good, but there were no details to implement it. In any case, both parts, the module and the connector on the cable, will become damaged over time. The module is now working great after I replaced it and the wiring harness. I soldered two wires from the car to the new wiring harness because one of the wires is a 12 AWG (large wire) type and the other is a smaller wire. The wire harness kit (sold separately) includes two large wires and two butt connectors for connecting two large wires. Well, on my Park Avenue, only one wire was large and the other more low-power, smaller. So you can't use a butt connector made for 12 or 10 AWG wires with smaller wires. So I didn't use any of the butt connectors, I soldered the new harness wires to the two wires on the car. At least now I know that if it fails again, it won't fail at my two soldering points. If you don't know how to solder I would use a butt connector for the two large wires you need to splice together (make sure you crimp it tightly or it will be a point of failure) and when connecting the other harness. Large cable to small car cable, you can check your car/hardware store for a solution to this, e.g. B. An insulated crimp terminal that allows you to insert both wires at the same time and then crimp them tightly together. Note: The car radio has never been affected by the Hot Zone module. Not sure if you have the same symptoms but the radio has always worked fine with both the old and new module. So good luck, I hope this fixes your car's rear heater problem.