🔩 High-Quality 1/4"-20 T-Nuts (100pc) by Bolt Dropper – Pronged Tee Nut for Wood, Rock Climbing Holds, Cabinetry Review

These sliding blocks are a quality product. The 1/4-20 threads are clean cut and the dimensions of each part are the same. I used it to make a carved board for my Shapeoko XL and it works great. I noticed that I was given fewer than 100 packs and there were several 3/16 packs in the bag. I would recommend that you factor this into your design if you need anything close to 100.

I bought these t-nuts to attach the Azek boards to the porch frame so we can access the underside for cleaning etc. After carefully marking and drilling the holes After inserting the T-Nuts and hammering them all the way in, I thought this would be great and would work really well. When I set up the boards and started screwing in the screws, I tried just my hand at first, but found that the inserts popped out as I screwed in the screws. I wasn't happy with it at all, so I took a spare 2 x 4…

05/04/2020 - Let me start by saying that the product (these nuts) is well made, well made, sturdy, works and does everything I need it to do. I order them in packs of 100. to manufacture pallets for their CNC machines. However, this is the second time I've ordered from Bolt Dropper and now I'm out of stock BOTH times. Things. It was probably 10 or so the first time which was frustrating but I just made up the difference by going to the store. This time I ordered about 4 short ones. However…

Very handy. I've found that to make the rod really sturdy since 1/4" isn't a thick measurement you can also add a second rod to the back of the rod. To do this I cut the pins off the back t-nut so I could just screw them in. Of course a nut and washer will do for this, but with a modified T-nut I can secure the back with a flat fastener. Even make it flat with the surface if I lightly screw the back with a Drill out so the second t-nut sits flush.

I recently bought these to temporarily attach tools to a plywood workbench (Steve Ramsey's basic mobile workbench). I just had to drill holes in the appropriate places and hammer in those nuts from the underside; I used a 1/4-20 bolt and washer to drive the nuts deeper into the wood after hammering. Now that the nuts are in place I can attach the tools and still have a usable work surface when they are removed. I don't think there is an easier or cheaper way to do this.

I bought these t-nuts to attach the Azek boards to the porch frame so we still have access to the underside for cleaning etc. After carefully marking and drilling holes by inserting T-nuts and screwing them all the way in I thought this would be awesome and would work really well. When I set up the boards and started screwing in the screws, I tried just my hand at first, but found that the inserts popped out as I screwed in the screws. I wasn't happy with it at all, so I took a spare 2 x 4…

I bought some of these 1/4 x 20 to make a custom mold plate for my Shopbot desktop router. I really wanted some without spikes on the back, but figured for $10 I'd take a chance. They worked exactly as I had hoped. Since they were on the back of the top mounting board I took a pair of pliers and snapped the notches slightly as the MDF I used would never take those notches. Then I drilled a 3/8 hole in a piece of mild steel and used it as an anvil to line up the edge of the T-nut. with a center…