ArtMolds High-Grade Copper Powder: Effortless Cold Casting with Polyurethane Resin for Stunning Sculptures, Home & Office Decor - 1lb/350 Mesh Review

came in a small bag, heavy for its size so don't expect much! It's also a brown powder, not the bright shiny copper of a copper chop. I used some orgonite resin and it made this resin opaque. So when pouring, make sure it covers everything in that layer and makes fine details invisible.

I tried thin CA Starbond glue and the glue just clumped over the powder. I also tried this with some unnamed resin and found that all of the powder had sunk to the bottom. As a result, half of the filling turned out to be transparent and the other half was sticky, even though I mixed very well. It was well packaged and heavy for its size. I believe that using the right resin will give you the best results.

Although it does what it's supposed to do, it doesn't tell you that the powder you get is almost completely oxidized. It's a deep tan color, like an old dirty penny, and the only way to get it really bright as shown in the photos is to treat it with baking soda or a weak hydrochloric acid solution first. Otherwise it will never hold when you electroplate and won't shine as they show when you mold.

As others have noted, this is an oxidized brown powder. It can be polished to a mirror finish if inlaid by sanding with tp 600 grit sandpaper. HOWEVER the usual inlaying technique of filling the cavities with powder and then adding CA glue (fine superglue, 2-3 cP) over the powder works drip, NOT with this material. CA beads up and rolls to one side. I tried using Super Thin which was developed for this purpose. I think I'll use epoxy instead.

One-time use: Dust a silicone mold with this copper powder and carefully pour in the fast-curing polyurethane (shelf life is a few minutes). After the polyurethane has hardened, wipe the surfaces and especially the cracks with solutions for aging patina and copper. After complete hardening: Lightly sand the surfaces with very fine steel wool or very fine sandpaper. The result is an aged copper appearance that can be very authentic and impressive in some cases and a bit disappointing in others…

I use this for a slight variation on "cold cast" - mixing with epoxy to fill knots, wormholes and crevices (a type of stress based crevice or crack) in woodworking, particularly honey mesquite and walnut just now. At first I was a little unsure about this. I've tried "Mona Lisa" copper metal powder before, which appears much finer-grained and brighter (shiny penny copper vs. darker tan), I think more for "hunting" type applications. But this powder mixes with the epoxy much more easily without…