🚚 Efficient Dorman 924-311 Truck Bed Mounting Hardware for Ford Models - A Cut above the Rest Review

Bolt works great I changed platform to 2002 F-250, removed platform from 1999 F350, it had 8 bolts. I know some beds need 6 and some need 8. That worked great. I can usually only unscrew one bed screw and the others usually loosen or just keep turning. I just cut them off and buy those screws again so much more time than trying to unscrew the rusty old ones.

I personally find it strange that you have to do that so that the screws go into the nuts. You'll stick if you try to do it by hand, so you'll have to put the bolt in a vise and move the nut up and down. Unfortunately one of the nuts and bolts isn't hand tight so I'm sending it back to get a new one. I would like someone from Dorman to email me and explain why it's normal for brand new devices not to connect manually.

Replaced a bed in my 2004 F-250 and after seeing what Ford wanted for the OEM kit after seeing the prices and reviews for this kit I hit one easy decision. I would recommend applying some anti-seize to each screw before inserting into the clamps for final installation. God forbid you ever make your bed again, but just in case it might help (it doesn't hurt, of course). There were no problems installing it and the clips fit on the frame like the originals. Save $$ and just get it.

Do yourself a favor and BEFORE you install them and then rip off the hex drive or nut, get some big vices, some of which never stick, and an impact wrench (Mini, 18V Ryobi only) with socket depth 13/16. SLOWLY turn the nut back and to the fourth side to expose the threads on the bolt and wear the threads on the locknut. Pull it in and out a few times and you won't run into the unexpected problems I've read in reviews that tell you exactly how tight the nuts and bolts are. They are designed to…

This is complete bullshit. Of course, trash can sometimes be the last option, as was the case with me at the time. Only the threads are very poorly processed. Don't forget to spray the filaments with a PB blaster before you start threading. One of them grabbed me more than halfway and I ripped off Allen's head trying to get it off. Now I have to weld a piece of metal to the head to get it out of the nut. General. Make sure you have good hand strength when installing them, and most importantly…

I used them on a 1995 f150 long platform and I don't see why they wouldn't work on similar model year Ford pickups. The main problem with them has been mentioned in many other reviews and you have to believe them all: these screws are very difficult to thread into the nuts provided. So I used a long handled ratchet and screwed it in by hand. I could have used an impact wrench but didn't want to risk removing the hex heads on those $60 bolts. However, I used a lot of torque to tighten them. I…

As most people say, getting a screw into a nut is difficult. The lock nuts are poorly processed. There are several ways to solve the problem. You take a chamfering tool and cut the nut until the locking tabs are gone like in the picture. Second, buy a m14x2.0 faucet and run it through the nut. I used a 3/4 carbide camping tool in a pistol drill and clamped the nut in a vise, an HSS tool will work too, the nuts don't appear to be hardened. I wouldn't recommend what others are doing to adjust the

This kit sucks. I had them replace my rusty bolts when I removed the back of the truck to install the fifth wheel guides. I attached new clips and set up the bed. I started tightening the bolts and the nuts popped out of the clamp after it was tightened so I couldn't tighten or even loosen the bolt! Of course, the two clips used to do this were over the fuel and DEF tanks, so I couldn't get the clips or wrench on the nuts. I had to grind the screw heads, remove the shank again and remove the…