🔌 Versatile Solar Double Cable Entry Gland for All Cable Types - Ideal for Solar Projects on RVs, Campervans, and Boats Review

A little more than two years have passed in it. My van has a rubber roof. Luckily it got into the closet through the roof and I noticed the drips. The rubber behind the threaded connections for the wires is rotten. The floor has been sealed with Dicor overlap and is in excellent condition. I really regret recommending this product to other travelers. If the roof doesn't last two years, it's junk.

This is a very good product! I installed it under a solar panel on the top deck of my boat and the design allows the cables to enter the unit horizontally (parallel to the deck) rather than vertically. Note: I used 3M VHB tape to attach the unit to the deck and then 3M 4200 Sealant/Sealant around the edges for a watertight installation. Provides a fairly clean install.

The device is made of thick hard plastic. I installed it by drilling 3 holes for the #10 x 1 inch button head screws. I used butyl tape between the element and the roof to minimize the chance of leakage. I will use Dicor Lap Sealer on the seams for extra waterproofing. The only complaint is with the cable attachment: as the ends have to be tightened to squeeze the seal around the cable, if not very careful the entire attachment can come loose as the attachment is held in place by two plastic…

This is actually outside of my computer assembly shop (ie wood paneling). It is not painted or primed so if it is going to be displayed it will need to be painted. UV destroys plastic, not heat, so dye it. I've gone completely solar and use 10 ga. Wire through these from the panels to the battery. and they fit like a glove when the nuts are even lightly tightened. The thing works very well, seals well and is well made. A little sealer around the flange that sits against the wood, a coat of…

Not sure how long the rubber pad will seal in moisture. When installed, it will expand and pop out if overtightened (even by hand). I had to loosen and retighten to find optimal tightness before it moved. It may be necessary to replace the gasket with a better one or simply apply sealant around the entire cable entry. The rubber rings that seal the cable don't feel very tight as I was still able to move the wires back and forth with enough force. However, it rained a few days later, no leaks…

I haven't installed it on the roof of my new RV yet because there are no instructions on how to fit this inlet header or glue any material onto your boat / house on wheels / cabin / The house has a roof or siding. (Most likely areas this will be applied to) I would prefer a non-penetrative sealant or glue, but sometimes you have to go back to the inlet head for an update or repair so the glue and screws could work, but then you run the risk of touching or piercing a hidden wire, pipe or tank…

Nice simple block with some nice touches and a few minor issues. (see photo 1). The wall thickness of 3mm (eighths of an inch) makes it extremely durable. Two problems: (1) One of the mold's injection points is very close to an edge, making that point a little less effective as a seal (but caulk or butyl tape fills well). (2) The lack of instructions made me wonder where the gaskets should go on M20M fittings: inside or outside? When on the outside (as shown in the product photo), the seal will

We have selected two such smart gadgets. We installed one on the roof to run the solar cables through a hole punched in the roof. The other is used on the front edge of our caravan to connect the control module to the battery pack through the fiberglass front cover. This whole idea was the answer to a lot of confusion because on previous installs we could run our array wiring through a fridge vent or drain pipe, but this wasn't possible on the latest install. Here's a problem: the company…