🔌 Yoiilnz KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V with Door Interlock (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Closed Contacts) Review

Perfect for my Frigidaire microwave. When we started the device, the main switch burned out. I watched a video of the renovation as it's only 2.5 years old, over a microwave on a stove top that matches all my other appliances that I wanted to keep. I read that the door switches could be the problem so I grabbed my digital volt meter and checked the switches and found one of them was faulty. These switches fit perfectly and saved a $450 microwave from a junkyard.

I've had a GE microwave for about 3 years and it just started tripping the breaker when it was on. After reading about my problem I decided to find out. One of my switches is stuck and probably shorted out. Instead of not working, the microwave would overload the circuit and trip the switch every time. Removing the front panel wasn't difficult. Testing each switch wasn't difficult. I found one stuck and probably the culprit, but I found these three packs at Revain for about $10. Replaced each…

My carousel kept spinning as I closed the door and then the oven shut off completely. These three switches look the same, but two are normally open, switching up and down. The third is usually closed and goes to the middle. That was the one that fixed my oven, but I replaced all three anyway. For safety reasons, of course, turn off the oven. Remove the case and you have a voltage tester to identify the switches, you're pretty much free at home. A pair of Phillips screws secures the plastic…

Attention! The switches are marked identically for NC and NO. Please pay attention to the position of the terminals and compare the switches with the schematic in the switch body. This is the key to their identification. The exact model is indicated on the case of closers and breakers. You must pay attention to the location of the terminal to distinguish yours. Got exactly what I needed to replace 3 in my Frigidaire microwave. A word of advice: the little plastic tabs that snap in to hold the…

My GE Profile microwave oven is a countertop variant. In this they differ from built-in ones. The switch housing is not accessible from the front, but only after removing the sheet metal cover at the top and sides. It was difficult to disconnect the wires from the switches. Use needle nose pliers. The plastic switch housing is attached to the sheet metal flange with two screws. I tested three switches with an ohmmeter. They have been well tested as have the new switches. Confused, I installed…

Although this is an exact replacement and will temporarily fix the problem, the problem is still there. From what I can tell, the metal in the switch seems to get hot when the food is cooked for an extended period of time. I think the metal expands in the switch and melts the position in the plastic so the button doesn't pop back out when the door is opened. So the plate rotates when the door is open. I have found that I can open the switch and cut the plastic behind the metal contact in the…

My Kenmore microwave over the oven accidentally blew a fuse after opening the door, there didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to say exactly when it blew other than that it did when you opened it the door was always correct. After going through 3 or 4 fuses I researched further and found that it wasn't uncommon for door switches to fail. After experimenting a little more with the microwave, I found that the bottom switch can be turned on and off simply by shaking the bottom of the door, and…

I have no idea why I'm rating the cleanliness and warmth of these electronic microwave switches, but since everything else is 5 stars, so are these. The microwave blew the switch and refused to cook my ramen. Using my advanced research skills, I found and watched several YouTube videos on the subject. Long story short, I found that there are three (3!) switches in the door latch area of my built-in microwave/oven fan (manufactured commercially under various brands). Also, I was able to find…