🖨 Precision-Engineered Printer Filament: Ensuring Dimensional Accuracy on Spools Review

. This is great filament, but if you only use PLA printing or your machine is a cheap Chinese machine you may not be able to get it right. First off, it's very important to print this at around 285C at the hot end and inside the body. I recommend Magigoo bed glue for nylon as it works great with this nylon. Secondly and I can't tell if this filament is wet even out of the bag before it can be used it has to spend 48 hours in a dehydrator I found and I live in the desert. If you don't do this…

The first time I tried using this on my Ender 3 V2 I installed an all metal MicroSwiss hot end but didn't change my firmware to get the temp over 260C (the highest) to keep factory temperature) and the results were, well, terrible. View three photos of the ongoing print. The filament is also frozen on my nozzle. I then modified the firmware to print following Taulman3D's instructions from their website. Nozzle temp 285-300°C, retraction = 3-4mm, bed temp 55°C. It worked great. I broke a wheel…

Let me start by saying that going over 285C with a factory Ender 3 V2 glass bead thermistor is a terrible idea as they are after that temperature are not accurate. general. Now for the stuff. Assuming you have a thermistor that is SAFE to reach 300°C you will run into problems if you try to run 100mm with Octoprint. I've tried getting it to extrude consistently at 285, 300 and up to 320C and I couldn't get the same number twice when trying to get the extrusion width. I kept seeing my newly…