🚤 Efficient Bilge Pump Float Switch for Shoreline Marine: A Must-Have Accessory Review

The micro switch inside should not be used with a pump. If your pump draws more than 3 amps, this switch is designed for that. Instead it should be used to operate the negative side of the relay. The cheap ball inside is too big or too heavy to get past the bobber.

I installed it on a perfectly horizontal surface. When I first picked him up to check operation, he turned on the pump. I let the float return to its original position, but the pump doesn't turn off. A few taps with a screwdriver handle, then the pump turns off. I can hear the ball returning to the off position, but the internal switch must be defective. I will buy another brand as I don't risk burning my pump.

Bought 2, mostly 2nd as "just in case" spare. The first was installed in a water tank to control the flow of water between two water tanks. It worked fine for a little over 2 weeks and then wouldn't turn on again. Filmed to find water entering the lever. Replaced with 2nd before contacting seller but found 2nd to be defective. Probably shorted out since it will never turn off.

Used as float switch in sump for 12v backup power system. It worked great for 2.5 years until the float leaked and the water corroded the micro switch inside. Can't complain about the price, but since I need more reliability (basement flooding is at stake) I'm taking a different approach with the type of switch I'm using for this application. Three stars as I think the watertight seal should have lasted longer.

I bought this. Cleaned my hold. Pocketed it. I picked him up and he turned on the pump. When I returned to the boat a few days later, the hold was almost full and the switch would not turn on. I pushed him down and levitated him back up and he kicked. It went like this for a few months. I always had to press it to turn it on. Then it just stopped working. Now I have to buy another one and do all the work all over again. I will not buy this brand.

Unfortunately I had exactly the same experience as described here, in fact my boat sank overnight in the dock and the switch was a whole new pace. Replacement for Rule 35A (which didn't fail even near 1/2 million MTBF cycles) I work a lot with DC and marine electronics so I tested a new faulty Shoreline unit at the earliest opportunity and measured 10-14 kOhms in a row Effective resistance (on/high water). I'm surprised they can mass produce and sell this device as it is. It has a lot of…

Well I have a 14 gauge pump connected to three pumps from the same company, love this pump. It sucked up some thick, dirty bilge mud and mud. But the wires on that switch are probably 18 gauge. No matter what, it limits current flow and you need to be careful. I didn't feel any warmth or problems. and if you need a couple or a big pump you can try this. I haven't seen specs for the amperage of this switch but I assume it will run a couple of pumps at 600gph like I plan to do on a sailboat. the…

There are a couple of design issues that make it unsuitable for the main hold switch, I currently have it installed on a backup pump but I wouldn't trust it anymore firstly, the range of float travel is too wide. The float on the switch must move to a nearly vertical position to activate the pump. In my trunk that's a good 3+ inches of water. Having a wide bilge can add significant water weight and create a dangerous situation. Second, the swimmer must move to the end of their movement to break