Review on 🔧 Fix Radiators and Plastic with J-B Weld 2120 Repair Kit - The Ultimate Solution for Leaks and Cracks by Michael Adams

Works if everything is done right. It is most important to use the mixture within a minute. I have benefited from reading these reviews about how quickly it starts to set and the advice to only mix a small amount. I mixed up four batches and had half left. When working with my first mix I noticed how quickly it sets that it was a setting not to mix the full amount of black and clear liquids as directed on their packaging because it's a lot stickier than what you could handle effectively before that. begins to prevail. After cutting off a small corner from each sealed packet, I squeezed a small amount of each onto a piece of cardboard - no more than a dime to keep them separate. This gave me time to wipe the corner of the pouch and fold it a few times to seal. Stored separately, the chemical effects didn't kick in until I mixed them with a popsicle stick. Both are quite liquid and spread when squeezed. So give them room to spread and don't make contact. It's easy to see when their numbers are about equal, adding more to one or the other to make them look the same. This advantage is not to be used too much. My piece of cardboard was about the size of a business card and stiff enough that I could hold it flat, stir the stick and scrape the edge of the card, and mix this mixture into the whole. Since one is black and the other is transparent, it's easy to see and appreciate how they mix. With a brush I applied it to the prepared surface as if rubbing it in so that the paste, mixing with the plastic of the radiator, would level it. apply a pre-cut piece of fiberglass cloth with a brush and then apply a coat of the mixture to the fiberglass cloth. At this point it became apparent that the mixture was hardening and such a binder would no longer be present. Knowing I wanted to add more layers I stopped working on it and let it dry for about 15 minutes. The brush also got better and was no longer used, which distorted the instructions. It's quite runny when mixed. So if you put a thick coat on a vertical surface it runs down making it difficult to keep it in place, apply the fiberglass and the coating and hold that coating in place before it starts to run . kit. Knowing I wanted to add more layers, I could focus on styling. Testing the first application after curing, I saw where the opacity could be improved and mixed up another batch, applying with my rubber-gloved pinky. Because the mixture is so thin to begin with, it pretty much evens itself out, although not too much is applied for it to run off. The initial preparation of the plastic tank is critical. I sanded down the area behind the crack to induce binding. I had to repair two cracks, one about 3/4" long on the flat surface just below the top hose connector tube and another one inch long on the top of the tube from the inlet. After sanding, I used a V-tipped wood burning tool to cut melt the line of the crack about 1/16" deep and then melt the plastic over the crack. After curing I sanded this surface to make it rough. I didn't have any motor oil to clean, I simply wiped away the sanding dust with a lint free cloth soaked in alcohol to seal the hose properly and sealed it with my extra finger coating. My patches have lasted for a week with no sign of failure, both look so well bonded - especially the edges they should be an integral part of the plastic heatsink.