Review on 🔪 Optimized Freud 10-inch x 24T Heavy-Duty Rip Blade (LM72R010) by Phil Morales

I got this blade for several reasons. 1: FTG: This means the teeth are perfectly flat on top leaving a shallow cut. I don't have a grooving blade for a circular saw and wanted a blade that can cut grooves, tongues and laps on a circular saw. I was able to make these connections with my old ATB blade, but there were always small protrusions from the ATB blade at the bottom of the connection. I've just cut some red oak lap joints using this blade and a cross cutting table I made for my table saw, and the results are great: tight joints, flat-bottomed cuts, and I didn't have to do any rework on the joint. . . It's ready to be glued right off the table saw. 2: break. The saw blade is really made for this and really shines. I can join one edge of the board on a jointer, then rip it to final width with this blade on the table saw, and then glue the two surfaces that I cut on the table saw with no gaps. To be honest when I run boards quickly through my gouging machine there aren't many ribs left on the boards, so in most cases the surface I cut with this blade is better and more "glue ready" than the surface I do join ! -cut!? It's not really one of the reasons I bought this blade, but thought I'd mention it. When calibrating my cross slide (I use the 5 cut method) I had to cut plywood. The surface on the plywood wasn't as smooth as if I had used my 80 tooth miter saw, but it was pretty damn close! Unless I know the cut I'm making is demonstrative, I probably won't switch the blade to cross cutting hardwood or plywood. As an added bonus, the blade is fairly quiet, and even though my desktop machine only makes 1 3/4 horsepower, this full-size blade runs with no issues. I'm really excited about this drive at this price point, I highly recommend it.