Review on 🖨️ CHPOWER Stepper Motors for Creality Printers with Aluminium Build by Sean Maile

I think overall it's a pretty good kit but with some major flaws. The Z bar was straighter than the one that came with my Ender 3 Pro and has fewer defects. . So ++ is there. I used it on the side of the main stepper motor instead of the original. Assembling the opposing side mounts was a bit tricky until I realized that I had to unscrew the X-axis track to get at the single bolt that replaces the internal V-groove wheel bolt and eccentric nut. I recommend that you use zip ties or soft zip ties to hold the x axis while you do this. Take the original screw through the 20x20 hole and simply pry it out, then insert the longer one. It's easy, but there are no instructions, so you'll have to figure it out yourself. Again, this is technically an issue with the original Ender 3/Pro stepper motor mount, but the black plastic mount is tapered and will not allow the stepper motor to rotate. sit up straight You can download the replacement on Thingiverse and pre-print it in PETG or ABS. Otherwise, your z-bar will be heavily tilted as you gain altitude. This may work, but you must leave the screws on the new stepper motor loose. Not good. Print out a new fastener. I also recommend CR-10 "step clamp" parts. You need additional hardware, but it keeps your stepper motors on 40x40 profiles. After that, just make sure your z-bar is centered on the vertical profiles on each side. Mine was offset exactly 16mm on each side. This means that the new guides that you screw on top of the 20x20 profile will be slightly offset. You will need to remove the plastic cap on the ends of the 20x20 profiles to center them perfectly. Measure with vernier calipers if you are unsure. I had a small issue with my filament routing and had to print a modified version, but otherwise removing the standard plastic cover on the top profile wasn't a deal breaker. I connected a stepper motor to my Z2 input of a BTT SKR Mini E3 V2. ; but it's just as easy to use a splitter cable. Their motors run in sync with each other; Therefore, make sure beforehand that the rail is level. There are several models of double Z aligners on Thingiverse. Or use Block 1-2-3 or something similar. Your x-axis just needs to be the same from side to side. I also left the step voltage the same (650mA). No problem. I recommend you combine this upgrade with anti-backlash nuts. As a result, Z1, Z2 remain aligned and the carriage X is prevented from falling down. Now the prints are very good and I can use the Z-Hop with perfect repeatability and no wear.