The instructions were pretty good but one thing that confused us was the step where the round pieces were attached to the front/top of the doors. This will prevent the door from slipping off the track. I don't think it mattered how far we placed them from the door hangers. We place them in the hangers about an inch on either side. We have a rosette so we had to build the "head" to be flush with our existing rosette so the door wouldn't hit the studs on the side of the door panel. Our door is 1 3/4 inches thick. In order for the doors to close fully we had to add a door hanger/pulley to the inside of the door panel. What is important to note is the depth from the wall if you have crown molding and that the hangers are positioned so that the doors close completely. We didn't use the supplied ground rails because we don't have a router. I'm glad we didn't because it took us so long to paint the door upholstery that the doors warped a bit. We bought a couple that screw into the wall and you can adjust the base with different casters. Make sure your wall is very level and straight and pad if necessary. Our wall is slightly curved on the right side, and the rail is so stiff (understandably) that it scratches a little on the right side when the door is closed. I think I'll put an extra washer or two behind that one screw on the rail to straighten it out. We followed the instructions exactly and the height given in the instructions worked perfectly. There was a gap of about half an inch at the bottom of the door to allow air to return when closed. The rail connector didn't hold it straight and wasn't as strong as I would have liked, so we didn't connect them until one side was fully hanging. We took our time and it took about 4 hours from start to finish.
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