Okay, I know it's crazy to buy a foam brush because you can get a pack of 20 foam brushes at this huge supermarket a few blocks away. Believe me. That's a whole different animal. I draw almost every day. I have an upholstery business and gradually the business went from occasionally painting chair legs to painting furniture as much or more as I upholstered. In addition, my house is a never-ending project, built in the 50's and hasn't been touched since the 80's, some rooms had a few touches of home decor. I draw a lot! Я использую латекс, эмали на масляной основе, меловые краски (как купленные в магазине, так и сделанные своими руками разных формул), краски для меловой доски, полиуретан, полиакрил, пастообразный воск, жидкий воск, крем-воск, клей и почти все, What do you need. I can figure out how to apply with a brush. I've used almost every common inking tool depending on what I'm doing. I bought 10 of these about a month ago and put them through a lot of testing. Trust me it's the most versatile, handy and economical tool I've come across, delivering consistent, smooth and great results. .It differs from cheap disposable foam brushes mainly in design and materials. The foam cells are much smaller and are the same size and shape. They are much softer; So you leave a smooth coat of paint, not jagged "brush marks" and even scratches from those fickle, hard, crusty cells of cheap brushes. I've attached a closeup photo of this 2 inch brush next to a cheap 2 inch brush in hopes you can see the difference. A simple design improvement over cheap brushes has done wonders for both the quality of the brush's work and its durability. . It might not seem like a big deal, but that little piece of plastic in the foam that gives it structure and attaches it to the handle makes all the difference in the world. The part of Wooster's hand is more flexible and longer. The added flexibility allows the brush to gently flex under pressure, applying a nice, even coat of paint. With a hard piece of plastic in the middle, cheap foam brushes will flex a lot and transfer more pressure to your work where the plastic has been knocked off, as opposed to stroke areas made with unsupported foam. With cheap foam brushes I always find that the foam starts to tear at the end of this plastic thing. Since it doesn't flex as much, the foam tends to just flex over the plastic (wish I knew what to call that plastic thing). The plastic will quickly start rubbing through the foam and this is a lot worse with heavy paints like chalk paint. I rarely have a single coat on a set of four dining chairs before I have to change my brush. Even if cheap brushes could do the job of painting an entire project, washing and reusing wouldn't even be something I would do. consider trying. They just couldn't handle the amount of manipulation required to really remove the old paint. Even when I tried wrapping paint in plastic to keep it moist between coats, the paint somehow dried out and turned into hard little balls of paint that ripped the previous coats apart. I left one of them wrapped in plastic for about 5 days and only found it a little dry in the corners. It washes out when rubbed lightly with the fingers in dry areas and showed no damage. I've washed and used them too many times to count. They remove old paint so easily that the water runs clear in less than a minute. First I try to separate the used brushes dark and light in case there is a hint of an old color hiding somewhere in the foam. But unless I painted and washed the pen it was too difficult to keep track of what was on it before because they all look and work like new. I even used oil based polyurethane, cleaned it with mineral spirits and got on with my work. Of course, the foam and glue holding the foam to the wand wouldn't hold up repeatedly, but so far it's worked! empty open paint can on the shelf, I forgot about it for a few weeks and just didn't want to clean it. Not at all what we're used to from foam brushes, it outperforms other paint applicators in key areas. me. It applies smooth layers with no brush strokes, those little foam roller hits, strong lines around the edges of foam pads, or a fluffy roller texture. While I 100% recommend this brush for any application on a smooth surface, especially if you want a smooth look rather than a textured finish with intentionally obvious strokes, I wouldn't use it for every painting project. It's not intended to replace every brush, roller, sponge, old t-shirt, grocery bag, or peacock feather you paint with. If you're painting a room, the pointed tip is perfect for corners and works well for crown molding, but don't try to paint the whole house with it. For textured surfaces and fine detail, such as B. hand trimming the top of a wall on a ceiling, a fluffy roller and an angled short-handled brush. But this brush makes smooth surfaces so easy and enjoyable to paint that you'll be looking for doors and cabinets to paint before you finish the walls.
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