Review on 🚗 Cloyes Street True Roller Set 9-1138 by Gregory Shorunov

BEST deal on my 1996 E350 351w. Coolant is leaking from under the timing chain cover. So I also replaced the water pump and the gaskets for the cover behind it. However, I did find that the 115,000 mile OEM timing chain was a bit stretched/slack. So I decided to replace it with this cheaper than OEM chain set. Why foolishly wait for the manufacturer's chain to break when it's clocked up somewhere over 200,000 miles? ***FURTHER, according to research, the gearing on this set allows for an additional 8 degree wrench that advances the cam 4 degrees. I live at an altitude of 6,000. I choose this additional setting and for now I'm glad I did. This change increased the crank compression I tested before and after by 28psi! and now the engine has more torque and i think the consumption has increased! If I turn right after coming to a complete stop, I can now scrape/spin the rear wheel where I couldn't before. The intake valve now closes slightly earlier to allow the compression stroke to begin earlier, more in keeping with late 1960's pre-emission engines. It is common knowledge that they were behind in the 70's and later due to emissions. Many on the web are proposing this change for an overall improvement. Many aftermarket cams have a built in raiser and one of the ways to upgrade the engine. The engine sounds and runs the same, but has more torque when starting. Not much more, but noticeable. Progress should also move the peak power curve down sooner (e.g. 400 rpm) per rpm, but I can't tell the difference. It still accelerates great with power up to the red line when the accelerator is on the floor. Also, I think I would have passed the runaway test anyway if it were still there. Some say that for best tuning results you need to work your way up to maximum compression at cranking. However, this may not lead to much more progress. I mean I might be in the sweet spot right now. Also, further advance can cause engine knock, requiring slow ignition timing or high octane gas. It would be interesting to experiment with, but I wanted to keep it simple and many feel that this completely brings back the settings of the good old days. Mark all of your screws for their location, screw ends, and corresponding holes! I used colored markers from ebay. Take some photos as you go to assembly. Take your time. DO NOT force ANY pin that is stuck, it may break. Instead, spray wd-40 and let it soak in. THEN move the screw a little further, then simply loosen, then repeat back and forth. can break and slowly remove dirt and rust. Eventually you should be able to go back and forth more and more until you can patiently unscrew it all the way. Otherwise, applying the heat of a flashlight can thaw corroded or rusted screws. She has to reset the ignition timing every time she changes the chain, changing the setting because the old chain was loose. Watch youtube video and never tap on it, especially the camshaft. Instead, use a maximum rubber mallet and wiggle a lot, using pry tools as needed to get the strained gears and chains into place. Using rtv auto black seal maker, rub both sides of the new seals and apply a few strips to the corners of the cover where it mates with the oil pan to ensure a leak free seal. Also check that the timing case crankshaft o-ring shaft seal is centered with the damper shaft hub, lightly check the installation to ensure the o-ring is level (timing case cover location) and not leaking. When reassembling, use a simple torque wrench to tighten the bolts to specification. be careful