At first my switch was a bit off. It pushed, but didn't fully return unless tapped, and when tested with a continuity tester, none of the pins changed when pushed. I'll quickly apologize for the mistake and send a replacement. He was very easy to deal with and told me to keep the old one in case there were any problems. When the replacement came it clicked really hard, I could tell the first one was definitely broken inside. I found my pinout and diagram and installed it. In my fan application I have a 50A relay connected to a permanent fuse and a manual thermal switch that is grounded. I also have a solid state controller on another fan that provides 75% cooling. It can be overdriven with a negative input. I wired both triggers together and sent them to my switch so I could turn on both systems for constant control. My problem was the LED. I connected it to the positive "key" and ground was on my blue trigger (green on ground). When the key is turned off, the fan turns on immediately. I had to use a diode to prevent the relay coil from being pulled back to ground since my 1995 k1500 has all those computers on board switching negative ground and floating 12V. It's a mess. Anyway, I love the switch. A byproduct of the way it was connected is that when my controller grounds the relay coil the LED lights up so I can see when my fans are running as shown in my video clip even when it's not being pressed.