Review on 🔳 Black Whiteline KDT911 Bushing Kit by Ali Lariosa

If your OEM bushing has burned out and the silicone bladders are leaking all over the subframe like mine, you should definitely replace the diff bushing. Torn from, as the old saying goes, the difference is "night and day". It'll feel nicer, run better, etc. While I've had an increase in gear noise (cheekbones), I've also changed the diff fluid (which OEM FSM info says is never needed), so it may have contributed . The Whiteline bushing has tiny holes for flex and knurling/hatching on the inside so it will hold the grease instead of squeezing it out all the way when you mount the inner race. That's something you don't get from Energy Suspension (for that part or the arm bushings). One thing I noticed is that the whiteline bushings don't run the full length of the subframe. Z1 Motorsports is offering a new urethane differential bushing ($79) that runs the full length of the subframe, but lacks the Whiteline features. in the subframe, if you don't drop the subframe, it will be difficult to pull out the old one. Z1 Motorsports has a differential bushing removal tool to make your job easier, but for the price ($98) you can also get an electric reciprocating saw for less (especially for you Americans with access to Harbor Freight). This is necessary to remove the outer ring from the subframe. This invariably takes longer and is error-prone; I borrowed my friend's dad's Porter-Cable Tigerclaw reciprocating saw and it was very heavy so I struggled to keep the blade parallel the whole time which ended up nicking the inside a bit lol. You will need a transmission jack (or a transmission jack adapter or some friends) to remove the differential from the car. Does he weigh about 100 pounds? - I personally didn't have to remove the silencer (Power House Amuse) but you may have to and it will probably give you more room even if you don't need it. You will need to loosen the center tube though, so make sure you have a spare gasket handy, or a liquid gasket will do in a pinch. sit in the gap, the head at 34 fits me fine). As a result of this reverse event, some differential fluid leaks out. This is a great opportunity to change diff fluid on the fly, although the factory service manual says you never have to do this (you'll need 3 US pints / 1.5 US QTS / 1.4L) . To fill it up I used a fish/aquarium pump because I'm a genius lol. As long as you have the diff disabled, if you can afford it and change the diff fluid anyway, you might as well take the opportunity to replace the aluminum diff cover. for fins (Nismo, Z1, etc.) if you like it. This will increase capacity so make sure you have enough liquid. If you drain it, then you should replace the drain and filler plugs of the differential with those with neodymium magnets (size M18 x 1.5). You need to stack some pucks. The magnet is much stronger than the really thick stick; After draining, wipe down the insides to pick up a lot more metal shavings. If you're loaded, you can also replace the LSD while you're at it - the new one just pops in. There is a certain direction. I've attached some pics so you can laugh at my pain :) Good luck guys