Many of them like it. I still give 5 stars, although the installation is a bit of a hassle. You need to access each lighting connector located on the bottom of each wheel well (side clip connector). First, simply pull out the protective tab (located at the bottom center of the fender) and bend it back - equally on both sides. Also, you cannot see the plug at first, do not pull on the cables. Just run your fingers over the corrugated tube and you will feel that the plug is hidden behind the box. Some of the connectors you will see are covered in protective foam, simply peel off to access the clip connector. After disconnecting the connectors, remove all lenses, bulbs and 3 hex head (triangle) mounting screws. Clean the back of the lamp and the car. Just in case, I applied some rust remover. Leave some soft foam on the back of the mounts, this should help with uneven metal contact (rust faster) and paint chipping! Then thread the cord through the hole making sure you slide the bottom of the light block through the larger hole in the bracket and push in (don't tear the foam, it's very easy to figure out where the connector goes in, just unclip it and not supported - also the hole should be at the bottom. You will understand that the bracket is fixed only one way). You need to press firmly on the light assembly, the brackets are slightly off the hole. There's no good way to do it other than scratching the sides of your light assemblies. but can not say when they will be installed. to put everything back together. You should be able to use your old hardware, just push a little to get the screws in (it's just the foam pushing the assembly out if you're having trouble getting the old screws in). Finally, don't forget to seal the caps. .Probably the styrofoam can't be reused, I just taped them around. These are areas with a lot of water and mud, don't want your plugs to rot there; Reattach the fender and do a full functional check to make sure your wiring is OK (you should probably do this first before sealing the connectors, just in case). AND TADA! Ready. It took about 20 minutes from start to finish with both lights. If you've never done this before, give yourself 30-40 minutes to do it. And the last. Don't open the tailgate with all that dope! The brackets are bigger and the right one will eat up your upper brace. Trust me, I'm glad I took it slow as I checked to make sure it wasn't making too much of a difference. That's the only downside I see. I need to find a limiter/stopper so a gust of wind doesn't blow my door off its bracket. Fits my 2005 Jeep Wrangler X/TJ.
CEC Industries EF32RLNP Flasher LED
7 Review
π Sporthfish Black Durable Hood ABS Cowl Body Armor Cover for 2007-2017 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon Sahara 2/4 Door - Pair: Enhance Your Jeep's Style and Protection
7 Review
Sizver Chrome Mirror, Door Handle, and Tailgate Covers for 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado / GMC Sierra CrewCab with Camera Hole - Enhanced SEO
7 Review
π Rugged Ridge 11650.02 Rear Quarter Panel Body Armor Kit for 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ
9 Review
Nokian Tires Nordman RS2 SUV 225/60 R18 104R winter
32 Review
ORCISH 12V 13000-lb Load Capacity Electric Truck Winch Kit π with Synthetic Rope - Waterproof Off Road Winch for Jeep, Truck, SUV
35 Review
Get Ultimate Towing Stability With CURT TruTrack Weight Distribution Hitch & Sway Control - Up To 10K Capacity, 2-Inch Shank & 2-5/16-Inch Ball - In Sleek Black Design
30 Review
Nokian Tires Hakka Green 3 205/55 R16 94H summer
37 Review