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Review on Enhance Your Gaming Experience with Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Integral Racing Wheel Alcantara Edition Black by Mateusz Wysokiski ᠌

Revainrating 5 out of 5

Satisfied with the purchase one hundred percent, I recommend the product for everyone.

1 A small jamb is that in the dark some of the buttons merge with the steering wheel itself. There is only one color, black. I had to glue the paper edging, that is, highlight the black buttons. 2 I didn’t understand for whom they wrote the instructions? The instructions say that to mount the steering wheel, turn the mounting bolt COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. The same for other languages. I distinguish between anticlockwise and clockwise. And the bolt is wrapped clockwise, the usual thread. True, if you look from top to bottom, it seems that in the opposite direction . Something too clever. 3 I also have a Logitek g25 steering wheel. So, the T300 is more imposing, or something. The ETS2 is better than the g25, but the g25 is better for racing: the steering is sharper, the pedals are nimble and the throttle response is better. The same nfs underground 2 is just a fairy tale with g25, but there are fewer game settings compared to the T300. But the g25 is also harder to mount. 4 For ETS2 nicknames. The default settings are not for this game. In the settings of the steering wheel manager (in Windows, not in the game), rearrange the radio button in the pedal settings to the second item. Like "sharing". 5 Yes, I forgot. I also glued the net stick. Too bright in the dark shines. 6 Photos of what he did, how, from what and in what place .

Pros
  • Belt, brushless, easy to mount, no backlash and no creaks. Quality suede on the steering wheel. Power supply in the case. Ease of connecting cables. 1080 degrees. There are hot buttons for changing the degree of rotation of the steering wheel right in the game and turning on the cooling fan.
Cons
  • And here is the steering wheel mounting bolt itself. If the steering wheel is planned to be installed only once and not touched again, then it is normal. But if you plan to constantly remove the steering wheel from the table, then a huge ambush awaits. Structurally, the fixing bolt is an ordinary bolt 12 centimeters long with a hemisphere-shaped tide in the lower part. This hemisphere is included in a similar anti-hemisphere (so to speak) in a plastic horseshoe, which presses the steering wheel to the table. The bolt is metal and the insert in plastic, which includes the sphere of the bolt, is also metal. But not steel! This is the friction coefficient of 0.02 for steel, and in this misunderstanding it is much higher. Therefore, after a few twists / twists, the surface of the metal begins to deteriorate and voila. In my case, a piece of metal came off, began to roll on the surface in the form of a ball, and the twist jammed. When trying to unscrew the metal, it did not smooth out, but began to spin in the opposite direction, the ball became larger and the wedge became "dead". I was lucky that the swivel gives some degree of freedom, the steering wheel did not press tightly against the table and I managed to pull it off the table. Well, after the horseshoe was released and the bolt easily turned out (the thread was not damaged, only the point of contact between the bolt and the horseshoe was damaged). Half an hour of work with a drill and cutter and the burr was removed and the insert was corrected, but the groove from damage remained on it. That is, with a new installation, everything will repeat. The solution was found in the toilet. There was a body from an old Bref toilet freshener in the form of two cones fastened together. With a clerical knife, I cut off the end of the cone to get a hole for the bolt and a second cut 2 cm further. The result was a conical nylon bushing, which I pulled onto the bolt to the sphere and which, ideally, because of the taper, has now become the role of a spherical gasket. All OK! So I advise you to upgrade this node immediately, in order to avoid .