So this is our third replacement with even shorter service intervals. The heating element feels real and real, and it's not the wire that's burning. In all cases, thermal fuse 110C worked. It cannot be reset, and the fuse itself is difficult to replace. I read something else, and a blog post explained that a blown fuse is just a symptom, not the cause. It seems logical that if the fan motor fails over time, the airflow will decrease and eventually the temperature measured on the fuse will also increase. This is particularly logical since the revision intervals are shortening with each incident (from the first 6 years to finally 4 months after a total service life of approx. 9 years). So I went ahead and replaced the heater element and fan motor (Broan S99080558). . Hopefully this will extend the time before the fuse blows to the original 6 years. Replacement is fairly easy as you only need to undo a couple of screws and remove the fan/heater assembly (which is held in place by two hex nuts). All cables are connected and replacement cables are supplied with matching connectors. The only really annoying thing is the unfortunate choice of a design consisting of four (4!) different types of attachment. Be prepared to have a Phillips (PH2) screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, and an Allen key and Allen key handy. Serious!? (If there are children in the house, make sure they don't play with the switch that turns on the heater. The heating coil heats up quickly, and if the motor doesn't keep up with the trigger, lucky kid, it can also burn out the lead fuse.)
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