The information in this review is based on my assumptions about the design of this device. USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK. After reading many comments and reviews I decided to open one of the lights they sent me. I received mine in September 2020 so older ones may be different. The photos show what's inside. Of course I voided the warranty by opening it up and adding insulation around the control board (more on that later). The first thing I noticed is that the pin the yellow wire is connected to is not connected in the flashlight. The two white wires are connected and go to the connector at the other end. The switch does not terminate the connection. The input voltage is applied to the circuit board. It appears to be feeding a bridge rectifier with a filter circuit. From there, voltage is applied to the BP1371 LED driver IC. I found a picture online that shows the IC accepting an input of 5-40V. I connected the light to a 12v battery and an 18v battery. I haven't tried anything over 18V. The only improvement I made was the isolation of the board. I suspect that a large number of reported errors are caused by the circuit board making contact with the flashlight's metal body in some way. The board is not protected in any way, it is simply stuffed to one end of the world.******************************** Performing the following steps will most likely void the warranty. ****************************** To isolate the circuit board you will need to remove the 2 screws that attach the end cap to the headlight is the end. away from the switch. Gently pull the wires out of the case until the circuit board is exposed. I used 3/4" wide heat shrink tubing. I used a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. You can also just wrap the circuit board in electrical tape. Check the light before gathering it. After a good test, put that Put the board back into the lantern and assemble the lantern Do another test I hope this helps answer some of the questions that keep coming up.
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