First of all, you should be aware that fisheye distorts the image intentionally. Other FEs have one star ratings because the buyer didn't know. Secondly, to use this with a Fuji body you have to go into the menu and set 'Record without a lens' to 'ON' as there is NO electronic communication with the body when using this lens. I think that could also apply to Sony. I don't have any other fisheyes to compare it to and comparing it to non-fisheyes is problematic. In the absence of laboratory measurements, however, I have to say that there is no reason to claim optical quality. It appears to be a well-made, sturdy device. [Update: While the sharpness is better than you'd expect for the price, after about a year of use I've found the lens to be a bit softer than I expected from Fuji's own lenses. In the unlikely event that Fuji decides to make its own 8mm fisheye, it will likely be larger, heavier and at least three times the price. So be aware that you may have to sacrifice some sharpness if you want a fisheye effect.] This is a fully manual lens. In connection with the Fuji X-E2 this is not a problem. As you manually close the aperture yourself, Fuji adjusts the brightness of the LCD and viewfinder to compensate and calculate the correct shutter speed. As for those with autofocus, adding AF to the fisheye would be a waste. The depth of field is so great that you have to struggle to get the situation out of focus. At f/16, even the subject touching the lens is sharp (not that I recommend it)! How to use fish eye. The first thing to think about is that you have to get very close. Second, know that you can get a straight horizon (if you want to) if you're careful not to tilt your camera. The best you can do with it is put it on the camera and leave it there for a few hundred shots until you get the hang of it or decide you don't want to do it anymore. I've found that with some outdoor shots you might not even notice the curvature - at least not as much - and get a natural photo. In another situation, the curvature is very obvious, but somehow "works". And finally, some pictures are just stupid crap. The key to success is experimentation. Update 1: Works just as well with X-PRO2. Update 2: It is possible but not easy to get a fuzzy result. Instead of trying to calculate depth of field or hyperfocal length, just use Fuji's focus function. Update 3: When set to short focus distance, snd stops and an object almost touching the front element comes into focus. The result is mostly strange but entertaining. Update: As with photographing all fisheyes in the sun, there is a lot of flare. Hardly surprising. Do give it a try though, it might come in handy - for me it's the last thing you see before aliens correct you! FR/4 is better.
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