2005 LJ Rubicon and the rear diff I'm lazy too so I paid anyway. Now I live in an apartment so I work in Advanced Auto's parking lot so I didn't have time to set up RTV. I had to take the cap off, clean, unscrew the cap, fill up, and then drive away. Once I put the Lube Locker back on, I knew $40 was very well spent. Things you'll need: 3/81/2 ratchet nut (preferably deep) rubber mallet spatula (or safe scraper) to get rid of that hell of glue. Brake cleaner for each diff (cheapest on the shelf) If you're worried your bolts are a bit seized, smack them in with a PB blaster the day before the oil pan. Instructions: Wear pants, long sleeve shirt, hat and sunglasses/glasses. It's a dirty job with chemicals. Unscrew the cover, RELEASE THE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS just enough to move the cover. Position the oil pan under the differential, and then tap the cover with a rubber mallet. Lid Take a cloth and clean the inside of the lid. Scrape the RTV from the differential case cover and surface. Don't be a perfectionist, try to make the surface smooth and clean. Crazy with the brake cleaner on the inside of the diff. I had some mud so I used all my 2 cans and some rags. Obtain any brake cleaner you like, then connect the Lube Locker to the cap, drop it back in and hand tighten the bolts. There is a picture on the packaging of Lube Locker. Tightening order, follow this. Do 1 pass using wrist strength without much torque. The second round put them under pressure, so to speak. The third pass, double checked, so to speak, they are quite solid. DON'T BREAK IT, you will break your shit, it was there before. Torque specification is 25 lb/ft for those with a torque wrench. It's a good idea to use blue threadlocker, but I didn't. add oil. You'll see that the gas tank is a bit in the way, you'll stay in the bottle at 1/4 because you can't tilt it any further, just fill the next bottle with leftovers. Check your bolts at 20 miles, 200 miles and then 2000 miles. Keep an eye on each leak shortly after and make sure everything is fine.
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