Review on 🚙 CURT 51170 Spectrum OE-Style Integrated Proportional Electric Trailer Brake Controller by Aaron Ward

I don't know where to start with this product. It's a good idea but very poor design and execution. I haven't tried towing a trailer with it yet, so I won't comment on its features just yet. There should be a mode function via part #3, an LED rotary knob that can be set to test pin #2, trailer brake, on the connector at the back of the truck after installation is complete and before you hook up the trailer. This product is a proportional brake controller and uses accelerometers to control braking. After installation, the only way to verify that everything is working properly is to hitch a trailer and take a ride. I actually feel like this is an oversight as not being able to check before you go is dangerous. I uploaded some pictures to explain the rest of things. Check out the Curt parts list I downloaded from the manual. Let's start with part #5, the base plate. You have to drill this into the dashboard and fasten it with a screw. This part needs about 2mm more depth so part #3, the knob, snaps into it. Look at the picture that shows the green circuit board and wires. This is the back of part #3, LED rotary knob. The black glue holding the wires together and attached to the green circuit board is sticking out too much. Thus, the wiring prevents part #3, the LED knob, from snapping into part #5, the base plate. Also, moving the screw to the down position as shown in Figure 3 will make this problem worse. I'm pretty sure that's Kurt Rice. 4 shows in their own guide. I found this out after drilling holes in the dashboard. To get around this problem I used useless double sided tape on the base plate you should have used. It's actually much deeper and fits great after drilling the screw hole. My dash has a slight curve where I placed it, so I also added double sided tape for the body emblem on the back top and bottom 1/4 with no tape in the middle which is the plane is equivalent to. The next problem is the included double-sided tape, which is very thin and of poor quality. A piece of double sided tape, part #6, goes over part #5, the backing plate, and is too small for that part and has no holes. So when you apply it to a stroke, there's an edge around it instead of a smooth one. Kurt's own drawing 5 shows this clearly. I've uploaded a picture of part #2, the main module adhesive pad (aka double sided tape) on the back of part #1, the main control module. It's not thick enough to stick out far enough to make contact with the surface you're trying to attach it to. So part 2, the main module's adhesive padding, is basically useless. I ended up using 2 layers of double sided tape for the body emblem and then used some zip ties to make sure it didn't move. Due to the accelerometers it is very important that part #1 is securely fastened and does not move while driving. Before towing a braked trailer, make sure it is securely attached. The last problem is the old man's problem. After threading the cable through the hole you drilled in the dashboard, you need to insert the pins of the cable into part #4, the LED display connector, before connecting it to part #1, the control module , associate. These pins are very small and only go in one direction. Take out the magnifying glass, you should be able to see the bare wires if they are properly connected. I've uploaded an image of what yours should look like if done correctly. Cheat glasses won't help you, get a magnifying glass.