This floor rail is very strong and very flexible in its positioning, but difficult to install. Why?* If you simply screw the wall over the existing floor, it sits so high that the bottom of the door catches on the metal! Therefore, the company manual (in the hanger hardware manual) to trim the door to a 3/8 inch bottom gap is useless. To avoid a very large gap at the bottom edge (which looks odd), I had to cut out a notch to allow the rail to sit flush with the floor - this took a long time on a very hard bamboo floor. I have a router, but it can't get a few inches closer to the wall, meaning I had to additionally cut out the rest with a rotary tool and hand chisel. It took hours of very hard work! * Figuring out how to install the instructions was very confusing and the instructions are useless. The tracks are plastic rollers mounted on two studs of different lengths, but you can't actually adjust their position until AFTER the track has been screwed into the floor (tight enough that the door won't swing in and out, but not so tight that she rubs). against the door). It took some time to figure out how to adjust the bolt tightening to get the jambs into the correct position once the track is bolted on and the door is in place and then properly tightened. The correct method (not described in the instructions) consists of 3 steps: 1) If the track is not already on the ground, first screw the screws into the washer on the underside just enough to stay in place, but not so far that they protrude from the bottom of the guide. With a protruding bolt, the guide cannot lie flat on the floor and the bolt cannot be positioned as desired. 2) Once the track is placed on the floor (regardless of whether it is recessed into the floor or flush with the top), move the bolts on either side of the door so that there is a tight fit (but no friction) for the offer door to pass. 3) ONLY THEN tighten the screw. But here's the crucial part: you don't tighten the bolt by continuing to turn the bolt itself - instead, you tighten the jam nut, which sits directly ABOVE the rail. The screw is only tightened PRIOR to installing the guide on the lower lockwasher; Final screw position is determined by tightening the lock nut AFTER installation. You will need a 9/16 inch wrench to tighten the lock nuts. Eventually I found that I had to use the larger of the two bolts on the rails even though I was only using one pulley. enough room to tighten the lock nut with a wrench as the pulley was just too close to the lock nut for me to slip in the wrench. A longer screw allows you to move the roller up and out of the way to discreetly insert the key. Detailed explanation, hope it's clear the instructions could be better although the construction is of good quality.
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