🔌 KTEB 120 1 TP Fluorescent Ballast by Keystone Electronic Review

I bought this to replace the ballast in my T-8 light band in my front tank. The light stopped working and when the new replacement bulb didn't work either; I knew it was ballast. It only took a few minutes to disassemble and remove the old ballast and install the new one. Since then it's been working great. It was a great alternative to spending $60-$100 on a new lightstrip! Thank you!

I used this ballast to upgrade an old fixture that originally had a starter motor. "Immediately" is good! Because this ballast is completely encased in plastic, it's sort of "double insulated," which was a plus for me, since the original cable for this light only has two wires. If I were to put a metal-enclosed ballast in this old unit, I would replace the original cord with a three-wire cord with a grounded plug. Very happy with this purchase.

It took about 15-20 minutes to install with an electric screwdriver. My 36" All-Glass Aquarium Includes Aquarium Lights and Direct Replacement. I think this ballast will fit any 36" fluorescent setup. As another reviewer noted, you can use a small screwdriver (I have a precision flathead used) unclipping wires from old sockets. That way you get rid of splicing wires and it will connect instantly. Anyway, it works great and the new fixture is $9 vs $40+ and it's the hassle value!

These are 6 wires - 2 blue, 2 red, white and black. The old ballast had 5 wires - 1 blue, 2 red, white and black. The photo shows the connection diagrams of the old and the new. There are 2 red ones on a tombstone. On the other headstone are two white and one blue. I removed the white neutral wire from the tombstone and connected it to the new white ballast. I connected the black wire to the new black ballast. Two red ones are connected to two red tombstones. Two blue colors remained, which I…

After 4 years of use my Aqueon Fluorescent Light went out one morning. Hmm I think it's time the lamp The old one didn't have the dark areas you normally see on the ends of fluorescent tubes, what else could it be? Phillips head screws and there's a little white box with six wires, not a little cylinder starter which I half expected Reviews and here we are Replacing the old ballast was pretty easy as I found that a small flat bladed screwdriver inserted in the small slot next to the original…

My 30 year old F20T12 single tube fluorescent light bulb just started to heat up the filaments but the tube never ignited. Tried a new tube but got the same results so I knew the ballast was bad. Once I had this ballast I opened up the bracket and found the original Advance ballast which was MUCH larger and heavier than its smaller and lighter replacement. The wiring for the new one was slightly different as previously a clamp on one end of the tube and the white wire to the old ballast were…

After 4 years of service, my Aqueon fluorescent light went out one morning. Hmm it's time to replace the bulb I think although the old one didn't have any dark areas you usually see at the ends of fluorescent bulbs what else could it be? I opened up the device by removing the four Phillips screws and saw a small white box with six wires coming out. There isn't a small barrel starter which I almost expected. Ballasts, looking for the best rated ballast and here we are. Replacing the old ballast…

This was exactly the ballast I needed to replace the ballast on my aquarium lighting with a 15" incandescent bulb. The exchange was surprisingly easy. It was literally the first electrical work I've ever done. Please learn from my experience: firstly, you probably already know that you need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the reflector cover and inside the light body where the ballast is located, but it will also come in handy to have a flathead screwdriver, or one other small flat device. The