The desktop PSU I'm currently using is an IP-27 model from Heathkit, originally made in 1967 was produced. Yes, he is over 50 years old. I had it repaired a few years ago and replaced the electrolyte cans, but needless to say it's a little tight (like me). So the search began for something that didn't use neon bulbs as turn signals! 0 to 60 volts at up to 5 amps, which is more than my old power supply's 50 volts at 1.5 amps. The digital display shows voltage, current and power and indicates whether the device is in constant voltage or constant current mode. My old power supply uses analog voltage and current meters. Voltage is adjusted with a ten turn potentiometer and current with a single knob. Even with a ten turn potentiometer, the voltage setting is a bit sensitive - you'll have to grind it down to the final setting. I can't really comment on the current setting as I've rarely used the constant current mode in my old power supply over the years, so I haven't tested it other than to make sure it actually works. However, assuming that if I was using CC mode regularly I would want more than a one turn pot to control - perhaps a five turn pot would be more appropriate? Again pure speculation on my part. After installation, the voltage seems to be stable under variable loads. Also, the voltages listed seem to agree fairly well with my DVM and some other meters I've tried. I recently purchased a 48 volt golf cart battery monitor. (See attached photos.) It displays a battery icon with bars showing the charge remaining and percentage of charge. I was curious what voltage the bars and percentages represent, so I plugged it into a power supply and got an answer within minutes. Note that I couldn't even do this simple test with my old power supply since it only has a maximum output voltage of 50 volts and a fully charged "48 volt" battery is more. The new power supply has thus passed the first test under real conditions. There is one thing I'm not very happy with about this box - when it's off, the output voltage stays on for a few seconds after the power supply is turned off with the front power button. If you do manage to release magic smoke while working on something plugged into a power source, you do NOT want to wait for the capacitors in the power source to discharge into the now smoking remains of your project - you want to turn the power off NOW. This PSU (like my old one) must have a separate switch for the DC output in addition to the AC power switch. I'll probably add a switch myself.
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