For example if you are applying to oak cabinet tops and want it to be nearly grain free and smooth. I wouldn't apply it unless you use a minimum 220 grit finish paper, otherwise you'll want to sand away a lot of it and root the grain well. Then maybe hit it lightly with your hand at 220 or more and it only takes a few light taps and it's best to use a sponge or block to stay flat. Never leave windrows or the like at the edges. It has small faucet blending capabilities where uneven body surfaces that you've done best to reset or grind can blend and stick and hold even better with this product. This was the second coat and could actually be done as excellent primer will conceal enough for some. If you ordered new cabinet doors and drawer fronts in lacquered maple this would suit better and can't tell what type of wood. almost the same. More like applying glaze putty to Bondo, use a hard rubber applicator to fill the pin holes in a body repair. A bit can never be used on the edges, or the applicator is finished or needs sanding. Edge back onto the applicator itself. Also, a plastic applicator for squeezing out bubbles while applying the tint is perfect. This applicator has a harder debris edge. You will most likely need a second coat with very light sanding in between. There have been reviews as to whether it can actually fill the grain 100%, and not really in my opinion. Depending on the grit it fills 1 to 4 layers. Some grains simply do not absorb the material. You can try sanding with 300 grit or more coats, but heck there are old cabinets that are airless spray painted. Very pretty but not great. However, five stars for what you get for the sheer simplicity of the product and its adhesive properties. All day son.
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