I used this to splice into the cig lighter circuit so I could control atmosphere cab lights I added that were originally controlled with cig lighter plug. I got brave and attempted this so I could free my cig lighter, and still have my lights. At first I thought the switches were defective because the LED never lit up when switched on. Then I realized I had wired it wrong.There were no instructions, so I (being an electrician) assumed the gold was the positive( believing it was optional for if you want the LED to be on regardless of the on or off position, and the 2 silvers were negative. the part of the circuit broken and completed by the switch, which would light the LED when switched on as the current passed through it to negative. After playing around with the prong configurations. I got it to work, but the lights it controlled were super dim. I kept playing with the configuration, eventually connecting positive and negative on the silver prongs and flipping it on( reluctantly out the the belief that it was the only configuration I hadn't tried, and fully expected it to be a short. after conducting tests with my multimeter) Sure enough, it shorted, blew the fuse and the LED in the switch. I broke down and went back to the listing.and looked over the community questions and answers.Finally finding my error. The gold is the negative( the ground) and the silvers are the power and switch leg. And I kicked myself because I knew full well neutralizing current, while capable of energiesing a device, was at a much lower voltage. But somehow in my minds eye, in the believed configuration. I thought switch's LED was powered by the neutral or negative current(acceptably dim), and the device was getting the full current.TLDR;Switch controls the positive, not the negative Kinda like every switch ever in both DC and AC ever. You get 4 chances to figure this out.
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