The classic air-cooled VW has a 36mm cap nut/bolt in several places. I specifically requested this 36mm plug from RIGOR for use with these fasteners. This size is used on the air-cooled Beetle on the rear axle, engine flywheel and radiator fan. Torque specification for the rear axle nut is 217 ft-lbs, then continue tightening until the pinholes align, ie 217 ft-lbs+ (often much more). The torque specification for the engine oil seal nut is 270 ft-lb (often tightened more on remanufactured and high performance engines)! Now add to that torque output many, many years (40+) of being in the same place with varying stress, vibration, rust or corrosion. These fasteners really love to grab hammers and torches and use lots of creative language. It is simply necessary to have quality tools for their attack. This high-quality, high-impact RIGOR hex head has everything you need to get the job done. The socket is very well shaped and beveled in the right places to make it easier to put on and take off the pacifier latch or punch and slide the nut on. The socket walls are thick, so overall it's just a solid tool, but not so bulky that it can't be used with most recessed fasteners. The laser engraving is bold and easy to read. The depth of the socket allows it to get into hard-to-reach places and fit in a variety of situations, such as: B. Recessed mounts sometimes found on hubs and axles. In fact, I just want it to have a 3/4" drive instead of a 1/2" drive. If you get into the kind of torque and age I'm talking about here, it's pretty easy to break a cheap 1/2" breaker with a cheat/extension pipe. If you're in this situation, I personally recommend investing in a good quality, flagship brand jackhammer (MAC, Snap-On, etc.). Cheaper jackhammers often fail when the head is crushed against the handle under this load. You can also use a 3/4" jackhammer with a 3/4 to 1/2" impact adapter. This isn't the nut's fault though, and it's not at all clear what you're buying (1/2" drive), so this is a preference and doesn't affect my star rating for the socket in any way. This is information only or a recommendation that may increase your success with this tool if you're in the same situation as I. If you're dealing with more modern, lower-torque 300# materials that aren't rust-welded, then you're probably in ok. Use most 1/2" drive breaker bars. All in all, this is a great addition to your toolbox, especially for those who own or work with classic VW cars. Glad to have it!
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