Did some testing on the red terminals (18 - 22). They're easy to use, but the trick is choosing the best heating tool to melt the solder and heat shrink tubing. The solder must be melted as quickly as possible, otherwise there is a risk that the shrink tube will melt. I tried a Dremel butane torch with a flame diffuser but it took too long to melt the solder. I tried my electric heat gun but it was too hot and too wide a heat path for the size of the plug. The Dremel butane gas heater worked best, but with a long fan extension with a deflector. This focused the heat on the solder which melted it quickly, then all I had to do was move left and right to compress the tube. The flame is adjustable for best use and wire size. I also just connected the wire stands inside the connector, which I thought was the best contact. The resistance test showed no difference to a plug connection or a simple wire. You see some crazy and stupid tests on youtube where the tester tries to break the wire with a force the wires will never see - or shouldn't see. I couldn't break the solder joint with more force than the wire. I also used liquid flux to see if it spreads better with solder - it doesn't. Another limitation is hard coated wire gauges. The corresponding connector only accepts standard gauge wire at the narrow end. I think they can be done via crimped connectors and might be just as appropriate as standard soldering, but I haven't had enough real world under dash or bonnet experience to give them my full endorsement.
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