I have been a high school teacher for about 17 years and have considerable experience in fine carpentry. I have some expensive shape adjustment tools, and there's always the old-fashioned compass layout method, but to the uninitiated, these expensive tools just aren't what they need, and finding the right compass layout is tricky (and hard to figure out) . Explain the details.) I've tried adding them to my toolbox and I can say I'm very happy with them. Not the metal of my pro tool but 1/4 the price. It also has benefits that others don't have. Namely a lock, a sophisticated beveled edge to better conform to rough surfaces (like rock mantles), and a large working depth for large tread variations (up to 2.5 inches deep). The blades move smoothly and the lock does a great job of preventing movement. A beveled edge is great because the material you want to put on a jagged edge is often a 3/4 material and you want the outside visible edge to match, not something deep in the kerf. Keep in mind that each of these blades is about 1/16 thick, so the edge you get will be serrated by this step. You need to smooth it out by eye once you trace it back to the material. The only problem with this type of tool (same problem with all) is that some object shapes will have imperfections on the outside edges when you press the tool against it and straighten the blades. You just take it gently and maybe make a few adjustments as you make the pattern and then correct the shape. Overall I'd say they're good tools for laying floors, making clean joints for woodwork in an old house with no level or straight lines, and making complex plumbing cuts. I like them, students will use them, I will feel comfortable borrowing them, and they are easy to use and understand.
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