Review on 🚗 GM LS-Series Melling M295 Internal Oil Pump, Wet Sump (Standard Volume) - Each by Ronald Ingram

. I had several symptoms, all of which told me it was the elevator man's knock. I was told I would have to replace the pushrods and camshaft to stop it. The symptoms I've had are: ticking under the hood, oil level fluctuations (to zero at idle/cold and constant fluctuations while driving). I replaced the oil pressure sensor so I knew it wasn't. I started work but didn't buy any parts until I checked for metal shavings in the oil pan and looked at the camshaft through the oil pan after removing the pan and the plate underneath. I cranked the engine by hand to see what the camshaft looked like. It looked smooth and glassy. There weren't any metal shavings in the oil pan, so I knew it couldn't be a tappet knock. (This is where you look for a significant amount of metal shavings, I didn't have any). Instead, I decided to replace the oil pump and O-ring. After a good week of work (incl. ordering and waiting for parts) the ticking is gone. The problem was with the oil pump. There is no more ticking. My truck runs smoothly. Actually better than the first purchase. Since my truck has 150,000 miles on it I also upgraded the crescent trunnions because Chevy put cheap crescent trunnions on the LS which tend to break and cause more damage to the engine. I also installed new jacks. I went from 7,393 to 7,400 pushrods. Although they are upgrades. Finally, you may need to upgrade the trunnion if you want to keep your engine running and not have to go through costly repairs because cheap trunnions break. Basically if your truck is ticking and all you want is for it to stop I would look at the symptoms above and if you don't see any metal shavings anywhere then the ticking is most likely coming from the oil pump. Replace the oil pump and the o-ring on the oil pump inlet tube and the ticking is gone. This oil pump saved my truck. Many Thanks :)