Update (11/7/19): One year old and it's holding tight. One thing I made sure to do before applying the sealer was to clean the surfaces well. I sanded them with fine sandpaper (about 300 grit) and cleaned them with denatured alcohol. The key was removing all the oil and old sealant. I also used Vibra-TITE 611 primer, I don't know if it helped, but it didn't hurt. 2 ounces. Bottle (Item 61102) was more than adequate for this tube. I also bought a Valco tubular grip (Valco Cincinnati 71416) which makes it much easier for my hands to grab the ball. It costs an additional $25 for medium to large pipe sealing jobs and prevents the pipe from rupturing. First review: So far, so good. My transfer case contains fluid. I had some problems with the packaging. The flat end of the pipe was splitting, so I used a radiator hose clamp and a used nitrile glove to clamp it in place. It was actually good because then I could flex the clamp instead of squeezing it with my fingers (cramped, tired). I can use this technique even if the tube isn't cracked. Another issue was the tip of the applicator. If you just cut it off, the hole will be too big. I used a 1/16" bit and drilled a hole in the end. This made the bead much smaller and more manageable. If you're rebuilding a transfer case on an old GM 4x4, this is for you. Very happy so far. If you if you take the time to clean the surfaces before applying the sealer you will get much better results.I used Scotch Brite pad and brake cleaner to ensure there was no old sealer or oxidation on the surface.It was the worth the extra time and effort, just wait a full day before adding liquid.
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