Review on Straight Ignition Lincoln Mercury Compatible by Harley Franchetti

These were straight lines that fitted my 2006 F-150 5.4 Triton. My truck only has 70,000 miles but it started to "shudder" when accelerating at 45-50 mph. It wasn't a gearbox, it was a misfire, probably on one of the rear cylinders (3, 4 or 8) which is prone to water ingress through the hood seal. If you do it yourself you will need a lot of patience to get the rear 2 cylinders on the passenger side (3 & 4) as they are difficult to access due to the main wiring harness and other things overflowing you. I have small hands and was able to reach them, and with the help of various extensions and a flexible partial handle I was able to do this. To get to cylinders 3 and 4 it may be better to remove the battery, remove the PCM connectors, unscrew the 4 screws in the PCM and remove the back plate for the PCM. It is very important to blow everything well with air. Compressor before starting and flush each spark plug with coil pack removed. Hold the rear locking screws firmly. If you lose them there, it can be difficult to find them again. This is not a very pleasant job as the whole thing is overwhelming for them, but it can be done with patience. Disconnecting the cable connector is easy. The top connector has a release tab on the side opposite the set screw. Squeeze and wiggle it and the connector will pop off instantly. It took me a while to figure out where that tab was. On some cylinders it is easier to remove the injector plug (white) first. It's easy to see, but a different tab. When I did 3 and 4 I first took both out and then replaced 4 and then 3 as it was easier to replace 4 with 3. It's hard to be sure that you actually connected a new one to the spark plug. Lower it straight into the hole, aligning the tab with the hole for the retaining screw. The insulator has tabs to keep it straight in the hole. Push him down hard and he should sit down so you can't just pick him up again. There will be a small gap between the holding arm and the head, so don't worry if it's not quite. Insert and tighten the screw and replace the connector. The connector makes a slight click when it's in place and you can't pull it out again without squeezing the tab. I started my truck after installing each coil pack to make sure it was installed correctly and that it was a good coil pack. I crossed my fingers and took it for a road test and sure enough the shaking was gone and the engine idled perfectly smooth. So I think all those coils were good.