Review on Ultimate Precision: MICRO JIG ZEROPLAY Miter Bar for Perfect Miter Cuts by Aaron Wagner

I chose the ZeroPlay corner molding because I didn't want to have moisture-related swelling problems in the hardwood molding. Unlike using hardwood, you can't put the rods in the rail, apply some glue and put the slide/tool on top. Instead, you must ensure that the mounting hole location is reasonably accurate before drilling any countersunk holes. Drill your holes beyond this forgiveness, your slide will not work. As instructed in the instructions, ALWAYS slide a piece of paper (or feeler gauge) into the bar when adjusting the width. At first I couldn't and couldn't let the sled slide smoothly. Took them apart and readjusted, put a piece of paper on the trail this time, and bingo, the sled is slipping and slipping now. Your own): Include a pair of pens to be used to mark the location of the mounting holes. By pins I mean screws (hex socket or slotted) pointing towards the opposite end. These allow users to set the width of the slot, screw the pins into the brass inserts, slam the carriage onto the table saw, and mark the pins where to drill the mounting screws. Of course, you will then remove the pins and proceed with the ZP installation. I wish I had thought of that before building my slide to test this idea, but I have a feeling the precise ZP setup would make it extremely easy. By purchasing a ZP, you're trading some cash for a simpler, more comfortable, and more reliable sled design. The ZP can also be reassigned to another snowmobile once it wears out. Of course, you have to decide for yourself whether these advantages are worth buying. Definitely would buy again as the ZP makes mounting the slide or mount a bit easier and works as advertised. My first cuts on the new slide (apron set) have become perfect.