I've tried about half a dozen factory CR-6 SE nozzles and never thought of trying anything else. I've been doing a few long prints (about 40 hours each) over the past few weeks and there is something metallic in the filament eating up the nozzles. I found them and at first the hole didn't look like it was the right size compared to the factory jets. I inserted the test needle and it went straight into the Creality tips but not the tuparka. I tried it a few more times and was able to get it to drive through the hole fine. It no longer fit me, but I went ahead and put it in the printer. I did a self-align and then tried to print a few times and wasn't happy with the filament coming out and gave up two or three prints. I manually moved the nozzle closer and closer to the bed and started a decent looking print. I was still skeptical about how the print would work, but after over 24 hours this is the cleanest print I've ever gotten on my machine! I suspect there are two things. First, there is more material in Tupark nozzles. That would make me think they hold heat a little better - maybe not by much, but they definitely have more material. Second, the tip is much blunter. I suppose that's what makes them work so well. The tip is very flat at the end and seems to "caress" the filament after printing. Maybe it's because the tip is narrower, I really don't know. What I do know for sure is that I usually pull chunks of melted filament from the hot end after 24 hours while printing with Creality nozzles. These are almost clean. If the drift needle went through the hole it would be 5 stars for sure. Having to fiddle with it blows her away. But it saves me a ton of time by printing PETG over the factory nozzles since I don't have to check the printer as often to remove the melted debris that the factory nozzles cause. I don't do many reviews unless something is very good or very bad and I really like these tips and the best part is I already have 40 of them! Wonderful!
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