Review on Truck Pickup Bed Lights Kit, 48 LED Cargo Lighting with Switch, IP68 Waterproof for Truck Bed, Under Car, Rail Light Cargo - 8 PCS by Chris Lemm

So far, so good. I installed them on my 2008 F-250. bed at 6 1/2 feet. The lights have an enormous light output and illuminate the entire bed beautifully. Instead of installing 4 pods on each side I did it slightly differently to get more light towards the front of the bed. I pulled the first 3 on the sides and then folded the corner and installed one in the front (under the window). The strands of wire are long enough to do this on a 6.5 foot bed. Another reason for this was that I didn't want the slack in the wire hanging down, which would require twisting the wire and gluing at the bottom. Also note that I did not install them on the bed frame itself. I chose to mount them on the underside of the tonneau cover rails. I felt like there would be more light than putting them on the edge of the truck bed where I think it would cast shadows and leave a dark void in the center of the truck bed. You can see it in other customers' photos. Another option would be to place them inwards on the sides of the bed so that the light reflects horizontally. It would certainly light up the whole bed, but it would also be quite blinding. So I am very happy with my choice of location. The 3M adhesive is more than enough to install them in the spot I chose. First I wiped the surface with alcohol to clean it. It was pretty dirty so I kept using a fresh paper towel until the dirt was gone. My wiring method was also very unconventional. Under normal circumstances, wiring is as simple as 1. running a fuse wire from the 12V supply to the included switch, 2. the switch to the LEDs hot wire, 3. grounding the negative wire, and 4. grounding the switch. I wanted these lights to turn on under the following circumstances: 1. A bed switch that is constantly on. Newly installed dashboard switch in the cabin that only works when the key is on.3. Every time the factory 3rd brake light comes on (lock/unlock, door open, factory cab light, etc.) I post a photo of my schematic that I drew so you can see how I accomplished all of that. That. But that involved the use of a relay, wires going from the hood to the rear, wires going through the firewall to the cockpit, a fuse tap and more. In my picture those 3 little barrel symbols on the yellow lines are diodes, which is VERY important to not sending energy where it doesn't belong. For simplicity, the photo only shows the bedside light on the passenger side. (The driver's side just connects to the track in the same way.) Overall, I'm very happy with how it looks now. The cross-section of the wire is very thin. Maybe 20 or less. All eight modules draw less than 1 amp, so this is usually normal. But for me it was a little difficult not to break the wire when crimping when trying to connect their wire to my thicker wire.