Review on Upgraded Aluminum Extruder by WINSINN for Creality by Sam Lund

Works better than stock and MUCH less hassle than full gear drives I have. I am so tired of the time and hassle of changing filament with my full gear drives and it loads easily like a stock drive with only two drive wheels. You need to change the electronic steps because the drive is slightly smaller than the stock drive. A slightly smaller diameter is nice as it adds a bit of torque to push the filament through the printer. I have a CR-10 S4 and needed to change the number of extruder steps from 100 to 139. It was now very easy to update the firmware as Creality has the firmware on their website. Find line 589 in the configuration, change 100 to 139 and download it to the printer. I was also moving the extruder from the printer frame to the control box when I noticed that pushing on the X axis track was causing the two Z axis motors/rods to get out of sync. Some have complained about the disc finish but all three discs I received were very good. Now I use them on Creality and Tevo. On a note; There are no instructions, but the kit includes all the necessary screws and the yellow-orange spring matches mine exactly. I had to put some Loctite on the stepper set screw. There is only one set screw in the gearbox, it is very short and tends to loosen every few hours or prints. So far very happy with them. Note; for the tevo tarantula I changed the number of extruder steps from 100 to 138. I am using the updated merlin firmware in tevo. Changes "around" the following lines (I removed and added some tweaks so your actual line numbers are close but don't match mine). , 138, 94 } // Change from 100 to 138 for 2 speed extruder drive986 #else 987 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, Z_STEPS, 138 }988 #endif Hope this helps. March 2021 update; Used several times, three years of it in HARD use and still loving it. I looked at several other reviews that complained about the MASTER mechanism self-destructing. A few things to note... The DRIVE GEAR is LOCKED (no adjustment) and the bearing rotates on a threaded screw (not perfect). You MUST leave the DRIVE GEAR (motor) slack and place a piece of string between the gears to align the DRIVE GEAR (motor) with the DRIVE GEAR. Make sure the DRIVE GEAR is centered on its axis before ATTACHING the set screw to the DRIVE (motor) gear. If this does not happen, the DRIVEN gear rubs against the frame, as in other test reports. Also, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the DRIVE pinion shaft BOLT. You will flex the frame and compress the DRIVE GEAR. TIGHTEN the axle bolt LIGHTLY and lock it! After dozens of spools of filament I had no problems. Even had great results with NijaFlex. To the manufacturer... PLEASE replace the threaded bolt you use for the DRIVE sprocket axle with a matching shoulder bolt that the bearing can roll on. I haven't had any crashes yet, but that's the only weak link in a great design.