Whether you use a table saw, router or planer, they are an invaluable addition to any workshop's safety. They are easy to assemble and easy to use. Control over your work piece is vastly improved over a simple push stick, as is confidence that there is now a large amount of protective material between the rapidly spinning piece of metal and your hands and fingers. I use a pair of these on a Bosch 4100-09 table saw and they work great! I'm building a mahogany flower shed for my wife and cutting some boards this weekend. It took several preliminary cuts before I became familiar with the technique necessary to get the maximum benefit and safety from these instruments. I've mounted a Bosch 1617EVS on a Bosch RA1171 table and have yet to try them out, but I can foresee having to either spring boards or use them and also remove the clear plastic finger guard. I would highly recommend them to anyone who works with table saws, routers, band saws, etc. In answer to one of the questions above: I believe the question is specifically whether the Micro Jig GRHB-010 GRR-Ripper Handle Bridge Kit is as shown in one of the sample images. I received my Gripper(TM) Deluxe Kit yesterday and it _does not_ include the Micro Jig GRHB-010 GRR-Ripper Handle Bridge Kit. Doors with 4" curved top rail. I use Yonico 12238 Rail and Stile Router Bits to create railings and ceilings. I managed to create rails and frames for 11 closet doors; the rails and bottom rails came together easily using my Bosch 1617EVS router mounted on a Bosch RA1171 router table and four Featherboard Kreg PRS3020 True-FLEX plates (2 horizontally on the table and 2 vertically on the fence) These pieces came out beautifully; perfect kills with no snipers and arson. However, once I started hand milling the dished top rails, the top two rails literally went away (at least 20 flew down the driveway. Red Oak has good hangtimes :) ), despite some flat passes second (both upper arches were damaged beyond repair) and sealed the badly scratched joint with plaster, I began to think about how to di ese could SAFELY mill curved top rails. After much deliberation, I decided on my GRR-RIPPER. I have a GRR-RIPPER Deluxe pack, a GRGH-040 GRR-Ripper Gravity Heel accessory, and a Gripper 100 upgrade kit (although I could seriously use at least three more of these for different purposes). I usually use them on my Bosch 4100-09 table saw and they work amazing. I rearranged the various components of the GRR-RIPPER to: 1) maximize the contact of the rubber feet with the work piece without touching the cutter. This has been achieved. by moving the wide slide to the edge of the workpiece to be milled and using a large flat piece with a hook (hereafter referred to as "stabilizing plate" from the Gripper 100 retrofit kit to hold the left side of the .2) set sure I always had a feed for the workpiece compared to the angle at which I was approaching the cutter. Again, the hook from the Gripper 100 Stabilization Plate upgrade kit was useful, but I needed to be sure the rotation of the cutting tool didn't twist the workpiece out from under the GRR-RIPPER, so I disassembled one of the GRGH-040 GRR-Rippers Gravity Heels, removed the small piece that slides over the GRR-Ripper, rotated the heel and attached a straight line to the GRR-RIPPER. This more accurately aligned it with the hook on the "Stabilization Plate" and provided more support closer to the cutter. 3) Make sure the GRR-RIPPER is stable on both the work piece and the router table. Workpiece contact was easy thanks to a well designed product. 4) SECURITY! I had to be careful not to lose more skin or blood, and I didn't want to waste any more wood on damaged parts. It was important for me to maintain forward control when cutting curves so the work piece doesn't twist, slip or fly off at high speed, as well as being easy on my fingers. I assembled all the parts as described (see photos 1-3). Put on glasses and ear protection and nervously prepare for the cut. I took a deep breath, turned on the router, and started the first flat pass. Success! There was no sign of the workpiece moving except as I wanted it to. A few more shallow cuts before the final pass resulted in a perfectly milled top rail (see photo 4. already glued to the door, sanded, masked and ready for ruby shellac). The next ten parts took less time than the first and caused _a_lot_ less anxiety on my part. Once again the guys at Micro Jig have done it and proved their product works on table saws, routers, band saws and more. An invaluable addition to the security of any business, the GRR-RIPPER and all its accessories are remarkably versatile in use, adding value and security to any project. Thank you Micro Jig for making my hobby safer!
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